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1961 Slingerland 8 Lug Student Model Refin Help!!

Posts: 1625 Threads: 294

SO here is the story with this one:

Date stamped "Feb 23rd 1961 M" on the inside. No extra holes. All original hardware. Mahogany/Poplar/Mahogany 3 ply drum. Sounds AMAZING, and the part of me that doesn't care about looks almost just wants to leave it and play it at every show I do...but alas I think I should fix it. The previous owner told me how it got into its current unfortunate visual state, and I will tell that story now.

Apparently the original Blue/Silver Duco finish was chipping and looked kind of sad so he took the drum to a guy who was starting a "musical instrument restoration business" along with a pic of the original finish and asked that the guy re-fin the drum to look like the pic. When he came back to pick the drum up, the dude tried to charge him $150 for THIS re-fin job. OUCH! I doubt ol' boy's business worked out too well. The previous owner threw $50 down on the table and tried not to punch the guy before leaving with his messed up drum.

I bought this drum last weekend from the original owner, and want to take it down to Mahogany and clear coat it the same way that Slingerland would have done to other student model drums of the time so that it can be as close to original as possible. For this project I need the forum's help. I have done re-wraps before, but never a quality wood re-fin. If at all possible I DONT want to have to remove the badge. As you can see in the pic the badge has some blue paint on it around the edges that I need to get off, but I need advice on how to do so without taking any paint off of the badge etc.

Please chime in if you have any ideas as to the best way to approach this job, and I will post pics as I get the drum back to its former glory.

Thanks!

-Adam

Posted on 14 years ago
#1
Posts: 683 Threads: 96

1. The badge is going to have to come off. You can get another grommet from Precision Drum. You can do a search on here for safe removal and re-install. You might try something as simple as nail polish remover and a q-tip to remove the overspray from the badge.

2. Jasco Premium Paint Remover to get the old paint off the drum. Home Depot or Lowes. Follow the directions, this stuff works great. You will need to remove the paint with a paint removing sponge. You might get lucky and if done in one pass and very liberal with the Jasco get the messed up finish off and have the original finish re-exposed. Make sure to tape the holes from the inside so nothing leaks in.

I will post more later, I'm working...LOL Others will chime in too I'm sure.

Cya,

Mike

30's Radio King - 26, 13, 13, 16
49 - WFL Ray McKinley - 26, 13, 16
58 - Slingerland Duco
58 - Slingerland Krupa Deluxe
70 - Ludwig Champagne Sparkle - 20, 12, 14
70 - Ludwig Champagne Sparkle - 22 (need), 13, 16
And some others..
Posted on 14 years ago
#2
Posts: 1971 Threads: 249

Good strategy here... http://www.vintagedrumguide.com/images/snare_project/main_graphic/precision_start_page.html

Or.. simply visit the restoration and help section on this page...

Yeah... you can't do the work you need to without taking that grommet off.

Not a Guru... just interested..
Posted on 14 years ago
#3
Posts: 1625 Threads: 294

Really? I couldn't just tape over the badge and cut it out with a razor so that the face of it is protected from any paint remover and then just sand by hand around close up to it to get it down to wood?

I checked out the restoration section of this site, but it seems like the experts on this site have other tales of doing stuff "not by the book" that I appreciate hearing.....as well as more step by step info on dry sanding/wet sanding and the best grits to use. No offense, but the "how to refinish a drum" section is pretty lacking in the details department.

Just checking for any advice before I "have at it" as they say.

Thanks!

Adam

Posted on 14 years ago
#4
Posts: 683 Threads: 96

Adam,

The Radio King I posted the other day I had to do the same process you're about take on. Trust me on the badge, get it gone, you will need to sand the drum, refinish and you don't want to be "working" around a badge. There are a few different tools that can be used to put a badge/grommet back on. Do a search on removing grommets, that's the hard part.

Mike

PS: Don't worry, we will help you out along the way.

30's Radio King - 26, 13, 13, 16
49 - WFL Ray McKinley - 26, 13, 16
58 - Slingerland Duco
58 - Slingerland Krupa Deluxe
70 - Ludwig Champagne Sparkle - 20, 12, 14
70 - Ludwig Champagne Sparkle - 22 (need), 13, 16
And some others..
Posted on 14 years ago
#5
Posts: 1625 Threads: 294

Thanks Mike. You sound like my man as far as helping me through this. Forgive me if I become really annoying by asking you a ton of questions over the next few weeks!

Your Radio King was the one done in Black right? That looks REALLY nice. I am debating on maybe doing this in black now that I think about it. I think it would look pretty sweet with the black and gold badge on black lacquer.

What do you think guys? Should I do black or should I go with a more "original" clear coated mahogany? This drum sounds so good I think I might make it my main snare for awhile...so....resale value isn't really a concern for me.

I appreciate as many perspectives as I can get on this.

Thanks!

Adam

Posted on 14 years ago
#6
Posts: 683 Threads: 96

Ahhhh no prob. Black would be nice and actually an original color too. I have a black one here that was killed by someone. Very sad site to see. I also have a '58 student in black and gold duco. I put some original triple flanges on it and I like it better.

Jaye is a really great source for refurbs too.

Oh yea, and you will make mistakes...click the link below.

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=7012

30's Radio King - 26, 13, 13, 16
49 - WFL Ray McKinley - 26, 13, 16
58 - Slingerland Duco
58 - Slingerland Krupa Deluxe
70 - Ludwig Champagne Sparkle - 20, 12, 14
70 - Ludwig Champagne Sparkle - 22 (need), 13, 16
And some others..
Posted on 14 years ago
#7
Posts: 185 Threads: 18

I wouldn't be too concerned about the finish of your drum yet, you've got alot of work to do before you get to that. The main thing is to take your time and do it right the first time, unlike the genius who "restored" it.

Once you get down to the wood, check the grain on it and go from there.

Good luck !

Jeff
Posted on 14 years ago
#8
Posts: 5227 Threads: 555

From Adam_Cargin

SO here is the story with this one:Date stamped "Feb 23rd 1961 M" on the inside. No extra holes. All original hardware. Mahogany/Poplar/Mahogany 3 ply drum. Sounds AMAZING, and the part of me that doesn't care about looks almost just wants to leave it and play it at every show I do...but alas I think I should fix it. The previous owner told me how it got into its current unfortunate visual state, and I will tell that story now.Apparently the original Blue/Silver Duco finish was chipping and looked kind of sad so he took the drum to a guy who was starting a "musical instrument restoration business" along with a pic of the original finish and asked that the guy re-fin the drum to look like the pic. When he came back to pick the drum up, the dude tried to charge him $150 for THIS re-fin job. OUCH! I doubt ol' boy's business worked out too well. The previous owner threw $50 down on the table and tried not to punch the guy before leaving with his messed up drum.I bought this drum last weekend from the original owner, and want to take it down to Mahogany and clear coat it the same way that Slingerland would have done to other student model drums of the time so that it can be as close to original as possible. For this project I need the forum's help. I have done re-wraps before, but never a quality wood re-fin. If at all possible I DONT want to have to remove the badge. As you can see in the pic the badge has some blue paint on it around the edges that I need to get off, but I need advice on how to do so without taking any paint off of the badge etc.Please chime in if you have any ideas as to the best way to approach this job, and I will post pics as I get the drum back to its former glory.Thanks!-Adam

Hey Adam, I would try to keep the badge on the drum..I have done this both ways re-moving the badge and not.If you have nevered re-move a badge before i would leave it on the drum and work around it,[things can go wrong with removing the badge]I would have the Duco finish re-done..[if not by you ]Then fine a good auto shop that would spray the drum[that is if you have nevered painted a drum..I used a shop that i have been useing for years,they just have a way that they finish the drum by,that No can of spray paint can match....Mikey

Posted on 14 years ago
#9
Posts: 1625 Threads: 294

I am definitely going to go with Black Lacquer on this drum.

I also think I am going to go for it without taking the badge off (sorry Gonedrumming!)....the only thing I am concerned about is:

If I use a paint removal device and get ANY on the badge, will it totally mess it up? I have all of the hardware removed right now, and the holes taped (including the badge hole). My plan is to tape over the badge and then cut it out EXACTLY with a razor...and then start stripping the paint.

Jasco Premium Paint Remover or Zip Strip? What do you guys think? Also, what is the best approach for removing it? Should I put it on a pole between two objects so that I don't have to touch anything but the outside of the shell when applying the gunk?

Thanks!

Adam

Posted on 14 years ago
#10
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