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Rogers XP8 re-wrap

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The shells do not need a badge because they are so nice. I agree that if you were to put a badge on them the script is the way to go. I also like the Big R badge inside idea. I am inspired by this kit.

Posted on 11 years ago
#111
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From jccabinets

Well that's true that the drums have lost their originolity once the wrap is gone. Every time I hold that big r badge to the drum I think, yuck. I will most likely take Bill and Scotts advice and keep them off, sorry Liz (my wife). I do think the script badges would look really nice on them but isnt that kinda like making a fake? I wouldn't want anyone to think I was trying to pass the big r drums off as something else. I am not interested in selling these so I can do pretty much what I want. If I could locate seven script badges for a reasonable cost I think I would go that route. Later I will take a picture of a tom with the big r badge and you will see what I mean.Jeff C

Jeff,

I hear you here (about the fake thing)!

On the FG BOP "Ringo" copy kit I'm building, the customer and I have discussed whether-or-not to install "real" keystone badges, because I've got some. Still haven't decided which to do... because there are some nice reproduction badges out there... oh well. Rogers isn't around anymore (except some real cheapies), so I don't think you'll get sued or anything!

I say go with what's going to look the best!

Bill

Bill
Cherryvale, Ks
"Redrums - Ks" on FB and Reverb
(also "billnvick" on eBay)
Posted on 11 years ago
#112
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From tnsquint

Jeff,I would not care one bit about the originality of this kit. You have made it an original. If you can afford the script badges I would suggest it as that would be a nice detail. I also really like the idea of mounting the Big R badge on the inside. Besides being a really cool idea and way better than paper tags, it makes it clear that this indeed not a script kit. Love it man!

They will pobably end up with no badge, maybe with the big-r's on the inside so they don't get lost and will identify the drums once someone down the road looks at them. The script badge will be too expensive for now and I still think its cheeting, especially the snare drum is not a Rogers drum at all. They will look good without any badge. But, I dont need to decide today either.

Jeff C


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 11 years ago
#113
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Plus, to install the Rogers script badge you'll have to drive nails into those beautiful shells. CryBaby

Put them on the inside. This way the real serial numbers stay with each drum. If you use clear resonant heads, you'll be able to see the Big R badge too.

-Tim

Posted on 11 years ago
#114
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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Jeff-

Here's a thought for you:

Why not come up with a logo of your own, and install that? Then make up an original inside label (maybe inspired by the old Rogers internal labels) and include the original serial number as well as your own date code and information on the "wrap" you installed?

You are making custom drums, like it or not! Why not embrace the idea?

Just my opinion, but worth a think...

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 11 years ago
#115
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Jeff-Here's a thought for you:Why not come up with a logo of your own, and install that? Then make up an original inside label (maybe inspired by the old Rogers internal labels) and include the original serial number as well as your own date code and information on the "wrap" you installed?You are making custom drums, like it or not! Why not embrace the idea?Just my opinion, but worth a think...

The thought has crossed my mind several times while doing other kits. From the start of this project I have tried to keep these origional as possible. There was even an attempt to locate the origional wrap material. I dont want to cover up the fact they are Rogers drums. I suppose you can call the Koa veneering and the special finish process custom but they are still Rogers Big-R Xp8 drums and I dont want to loose that. And, Rogers did offer these in a Koa cortex wrap, so thats where the veneer idea came from.

But someday, I will put together an entire custom kit starting with stock Keller shells and using all new hardware. Then I think it would be fair to design a badge of my own and install them on the drums. So yes I have considered a logo for myself but I dont think this is the kit to do it with.

I just hate to put those ugly badges on the outside of them.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 11 years ago
#116
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By the way, I forgot to mention. The badges for the 12.13,16,22 have no serial numbers. The 10,12 concert tom do have numbers though.

Thanks guys for your input, makes me happy knowing you are interested in what I am doing here. This weekend will be crazy with cabinets but next weekend I can get some time to really work on them again. I have a neat idea for the bass drum hoops.

THANKS AGAIN!!!

Jeff C


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 11 years ago
#117
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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Well, it is a fine line. Most "custom drum makers" don't make the shells themselves. Rather than Keller shells, you have Rogers shells. With a premium, Hawaiian Koa wrap. Here's an example of what an internal label might look like:

[SIZE="4"]JC Customs[/SIZE]

Shell: Rogers XP-8

Shell Material: ?????

Finish: Hawaiian Koa, gloss

Completed: 2/13

Serial: XXXXX

_______________ (Signature line)

all on a compact decal inside the shell.

On your Keller shell projects in the future, you replace the "Rogers XP-8" with "Keller". If you use other shells or drums for your future projects you keep the information there, so there is a connection to the origin, with credit where credit is due. Rogers made these shells, but you made them into what they are now.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 11 years ago
#118
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Well, it is a fine line. Most "custom drum makers" don't make the shells themselves. Rather than Keller shells, you have Rogers shells. With a premium, Hawaiian Koa wrap. Here's an example of what an internal label might look like:[SIZE="4"]JC Customs[/SIZE]Shell: Rogers XP-8Shell Material: ?????Finish: Hawaiian Koa, glossCompleted: 2/13Serial: XXXXX_______________ (Signature line)all on a compact decal inside the shell.On your Keller shell projects in the future, you replace the "Rogers XP-8" with "Keller". If you use other shells or drums for your future projects you keep the information there, so there is a connection to the origin, with credit where credit is due. Rogers made these shells, but you made them into what they are now.

J!m,

This is an excellent idea!

Bill

Bill
Cherryvale, Ks
"Redrums - Ks" on FB and Reverb
(also "billnvick" on eBay)
Posted on 11 years ago
#119
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J!m, I see what your saying and like the idea. So, something made up on the computer and printed out on like sticky back lables I guess. And thanks for thinking up my new custom drum shop name, lol!

Jeff C


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 11 years ago
#120
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