What year did they start putting mufflers in the toms?

This is a great thread! Very well documented restoration project. I'm going to keep up with this one to see how it all turns out in the end. I've a similar set from the same era. Great drums. Not sure when mufflers were added (or discontinued) to the toms. My own 9 x 13 has no mufflers, top or bottom and has NOB hoops Nickel lugs.

FINALLY!!! Sorry for the delay!

I finally got a form made today. I traced a line of the shell (on the good side of course). Now I only have the jig saw so thats what I made my cut with. It actually worked fine.

I put the forms on the shell with a couple clamps. I didn't tighten all the way because I don't want to damage the shell. Theres no cracks or damage to be seen on the shell as I mentioned before besides that rering being popped up. It is about 1/2" out of round. The form fits on the opposite side just fine.

Not sure if I want to add more clamps and tighten the shell to the form I made or if I should just focus on glueing the rering down? Someone please advise!?!

Hi ec, did you do anything yet for the wrap crack(s) ?

I have a 16'' WFL floor tom in WMP with 2 tiny finger nail width sized wrap cracks and found this thread when searching the forum for ideas on how to fill in a wrap crack :)

Wish I had seen the idea for the Evaporust first though, the nickel on my floor was GRAY before I tackled it yesterday...

Sorry I have not done anything with the cracks in the wrap yet.

Curtis

The dates should be stamped inside the drums..(in red)...

I thought that too but they are not.

Your on the right path but,

it appears you did not allow for the thickness of the shell + ring when you made the forms. You should actually measure the inside and outside diameters, then draw both radius's on the 2x6 from the same center point. You should end up with a sliver of the 2x6 the thickness of the shell+ring minus the saw kerf,s. That will produce the perfect form. But before you start over, take your tape measure and measure the outside diameter with the forms clamped into place. If the measurement is the same all the way around then forget what I said. I brought this up because I use templates for making arched and cathedral top doors. These templates do not match up when pushed together because they have allowed for the 3/16" gap that you want between the door panel and the top rail.

And very important also is make sure your hand held saw is cutting at a true 90 degree,s. I would use a pretty stiff blade in it too so it wont wonder around.

Your doing a fine job, hope you don't take this wrong, I felt like you were asking for advice so here it is. Carry on wayward son!

Jeff I am absolutely asking for advice!!! Thank you so much! I appreciate you taking the time. I will get this worked out. Thanks again!

As of last night I am making some progress. Decided to move onto the easy things first and will now get back to the bass drum!

Cheers!

Curtis