Bravo John!

Those look great.

Thanks Shawn... The floor tom just arrived! The only thing missing is a bottom hoop and the tension-rods. Otherwise complete. The wrap has bad damage at the seam and a couple of chips missing here and there, so 'no guilt' about re-wrapping the drum. There's a dinger in the bottom bearing edge that I'll have repaired in no time flat. I have to wait to order the piece of wrap until I get some $ in, but as soon as I'm able, I'll be calling Andrea at Precision and placing my order. In the meantime, I have work to do to get the drum ready for the new wrap.

It's a 16"x16" 3-ply (Brooklyn factory) shell with a tack round badge. It's -perfect- for the kit. I couldn't have found a better matching shell if I looked for a hundred years. Thanks again, Bill!

Stay tuned, more to come!

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/ft1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/ft2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/ft3.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/ft4.jpg[/IMG]

John

That floor tom is a great find. It's going to be a great looking kit.

I know, I got real lucky! Same era drum, same 3-ply shell as the rest of the kit and it's period perfect in terms of appropriate hardware. I have the legs too. The only missing items on the floor tom are the bottom tension rods and bottom hoop.

I have already filled and repaired the ding in the bottom bearing edge. Went over it with 400 grit paper. It's clean and smooth as glass. It's going to be an awesome floor tom for the kit.

John

Wow that's cool. No wastin time there you got the bearing edge fixed already!! Good job!

Purdie,

What is your method for filling gouges in bearing edges? I know there has been discussion regarding this, but I am curious as to your approach.

The wood filler I use dries unusually hard. I use my finger to apply it, so I can fill any gaps in the plies or fill in small gaps in the bearing edge. I can 'feel' if it is uniform with the rest of edge or not. Depending on the gouge, I'll tape playing cards inside and outside of the shell dead level with the bearing edge. Kind of like making a form for concrete. Once the filler dries, I can remove the cards and have smooth, even walls, that match the inside and outside of the shell on the repair. Shaping the top of the edge is easy after that.

Once it's dry, I use 300 or 400 grit paper to smooth the area where I added filler to level and shape it to the rest of the edge. Then I go over it with a little butchers wax on some 00-00 steel wool. It leaves the edges hard and smooth as glass to the touch. I know when I did a good job if I can close my eyes, run my finger around the bearing edge and not feel any bumps, dips, or deviations, of any kind. If, after sanding, I can't feel the repairs... then it's good job.

Always use long strokes when doing any sanding on a bearing edge or the surface of a shell. It'll be more uniform and you won't dig-out any areas by going back and forth, over and over on a small area of the edge. -Longest strokes possible.-

John

Hi John ( wow that sounds strange) I mean Mr. PD Shuffler.

What wood filler do you use? Please

SA

It's called; Famowood #1 Professional Wood Filler. It dries very hard, it won't shrink and it won't crack. My son, the firefighter, moonlights as a finish carpenter, he's the one that turned me on to this stuff.

Go to this link. This where I got it: http://www.eclecticproducts.com/

I don't mind spending a little more up-front for quality materials. The jobs come out better and you don't find your repairs falling apart after only a short time.

Quality in, quality out. Garbage in, garbage out! Just the way it is. Better not to to be stingy with basic materials in the long run.

John

John, this has been a very interesting post to follow. I am working on some MIJ drums at the moment and had to repair the edges. Its funny that you use the same product I do, the Famowood. We keep it around for the times when my planer decides to gouge the door panels. I like the stuff, after trying different fillers. Just curious, are you using the sovent base or the water base and what do you call expensive??? I pay 6.00 for a 1 pint jar. I have used other brands like it that were sovent based but I really like the water based better.

Your project is moving along nicely, I like how you present the project. You do a very good job of adding text to the pictures, its like reading a book. We are all lookin forward to the final shot of the completed set. Nice to see that you are so happy as you move along with the project, it makes it fun for all of us.

Jeff C