Just FYI I think your gate guards on the Dynasonic snare are on upside down. The open half circle should face down if I am not mistaken.

Other than that small critique, AWESOME job! The kit looks amazing! How does it sound?

-Adam

That looks like a Ludwig L arm. Your kit looks fantasticCool1 You would be hard pressed to find a script logo Londoner V with a Dyna for under $500. I think you did alright.

Thanks so much for feedback!! Its sincerely appreciated.

Now back to the cymbal stands...

As mentioned, there are six. These are heavy chrome plated steel. There are no significant scratches and no rust. All six are in good overall physical condition.

There are a couple of issues and points of interest besides needing some cleaning.

First, every tilter has the capacity for two set screws and there is only one in each. One tilter had a second thumb screw which can be seen on the tilter placed into the no-name bass mount, its new home. (Earlier post)

Second, three tilters have small non-chrome wing nuts, two have small newer looking wing nuts and one has a huge what I might expect to be a Rogers manufactured wing nut.

Third, although all rubber feet are present, three have cracks and have seen better days. I do not see them as needing replaced unless they started seeing some mileage.

Four, the base washer on one tilter is plastic.

Five, the felts and base washer are missing on one tilter.

Finally, at the very bottom of the lower section assembly, I have three with a crimped and/or welded ring at the base to stop the horizontal leg supports from sliding off the bottom and three with an the tube expanded at the base. I suspect that the crimped/welded ring is an older model. The rivets on the model with the expanded base are a little loose. This is most likely from opening and closing the stand and the graduated expanded tube slowly worked them loose. It is that way on one of the three.

In terms of operation, two work very smoothly. I suspect these are the first two I purchased and had lightly oiled. I will do the same for the other four after a workover with the chrome polish. With no rust, this will be an easy job.

So, I need:

1. Six set screws 61-0491

2. Five Rogers wing nuts. 61-0165

3. Two Metal cymbal washer 60-5792

4. One set of felts (Will buy more of the DDrum felts)

5. Two extra tilter rod assemblies 61-0144

And finally the cleaning of the Samson II stands...

They were cleaned two stands per sitting using Brasso. There is a fair amount of surface area and to do a decent job of removing the dust, dirt and corrosion from the scratches and pits took about 45 minutes for each stand, with one exception. One of the six stand looks unused. I have a couple of closeups of it in the photo album link below.

The cleaning also had the benefit of improving the adjustment operation as they now open and close more easily. No oiling required.

Each stand is heavy. Someone decided that Samson II stands were going to be built for battle. They have worn well these 38-40 years.

I am thinking I should pack the one unused stand away for a few years and let it help pay down some of this investment as that has been continuing. This week, I missed out on a decent drum throne but picked up an 18" and 16" period correct pair of Zildjian cymbals. The 20" will have to wait. The prices are unbelievable.

Appearance tells the tale...click the link to see the photo album..

https://plus.google.com/116552925687273558705#photos/116552925687273558705/albums/5700521465607775345

On to the Supreme Hi-Hat...

The original that came with the kit suffered alien abduction and experimentation or had been used and handled by a drummer with extremely acidic sweat. The chrome under the cymbal was gone and replaced with rust.

It was the weakest link in the kit at the time and I decided to replace it. (Cost of new and selling old are noted earlier in this thread.)

I kept the original Ludwig cymbals. I have not spent much time doing any identification. I have no experience with vintage cymbals but based on the patina, my assumption has been they are the same age as the kit. I need to do a little more research here. Link on dating ZILDJIAN CYMBAL STAMP

I also previously mentioned, the replacement hi-hat came with one problem. The tilter screw does now work because the flange tilter bushing is stripped. I have had many thoughts about ways to fix this but have not attempted any yet. It is now on the radar.

There are alot of parts. Much to learn and explore.

Photo album at

https://plus.google.com/116552925687273558705#photos/116552925687273558705/albums/5700550248440652305

Finished the Hi-hat Today

Quiet day in the Sun Room with Wish You Were Here and Steely Dan's Show Biz Kids and cleaning supplies.

The Supreme hi-hat came out better than expected.

Cleaning in progress photos

Finished Product photos

It was dirty.

I started with the lower stand, stirrup, spir, foot board. I cleaned and tried a little brasso on the cast metal. It cleanup up but no real shine. I choose not to buff or polish the cast. When I see the high sheen on these pieces on ebay, they look too polished. I prefer natural cast look.

Brasso worked great on the chrome. That came out very nicely.

I had to use a tooth brush to clean with so many crevices.

I tried to find a thin nut for the flange tilter bushing. A regular nut is too thick and I could not find any other alternatives at the hardware store. Not having this working does not render the hi-hat unplayable but it is a source of frustration for me.

1960s Zildjian Cymbals

The kit came with two 14" Zildjian hi-hat cymbals. I was able to determine they were 1960s.

They are in perfect, beautiful condition.

I decided to stay with the 1960s and this week two ebay purchased cymbals arrived. The 18" and one 16" are both 1960s.

Compared to the hi-hat, they are looking pretty dirty. I am struggling with whether or not to clean them. I have been doing some reseach. There are many alternatives, ketchup being one. There are liquid and stick marks. After all the cleaning of the drums, I am compelled to make the cymbals look nicer.

I have read both sides of to clean or not to clean vintage cymbals.

Thoughts ??

See pictures here

Cymbals should be cleaned. Muraic acid is dangerous, but does a quick & thorough job if used carefully. Work outdoors. Cut it w/ 50% water, wear gloves, work downwind, don't get too close. Wipe it w/ a saturated cloth, wait a few(20) seconds, & bathe your cymbal in clear water. Try that a few times. It will save you an hour + of work. (many cymbal /brass cleaners & paste can leave a residue in the grooves)

Thanks tdennis. I sincerely appreciate the opinion and information.

I only get one chance at this.

Also important to note on the 16" is the small cracks at the hole.

I saved myself a little money by going after the lesser expensive cymbals and bought myself a new problem. Violin

Grommet, file, leave it alone?

(Interesting book I found online)

After 90 minutes of soap and water and Brasso, this is what I wound up with.

The dirt is gone. The tarnish can be removed by elbow grease but it is a lot of work.

I am out to buy a gallon of vinegar.