Hi Hats look real nice. Not over done and still retain a nice vintage vibe to them.

Thank you !!

Still some work ahead on the hi-hat. The tilter screw does not seat well into the flange. I have some ideas but need time to experiment.

This post is about the...

Rogers Bass Pedal

Pix here Note that I am having trouble uploading two photos. One is a side by side of two pedal styles and the second is a 1973 catalog page. I will keep working on this.

The kit came with a tama pedal. (Its for sale)

You quickly became aware that a Rogers pedal is an expensive investment.

Watching ebay, craigslist, shopped the antique and Mom and Pop music shops, I finally came across this one.

Its all Rogers, well worn, but fully functional with two short comings...

Its one missing screw. Thats replaceable.

It is not a pedal I can find in the 1973 catalog.

Notice the side by side of the two pedal styles.

The pedal does not match the pedal on the hi-hat.

Part number in the 1973 catalog are

- 61-5162-034 on the left

- 60-5215-035 on the right

I suspect this pedal was an assembly of various pedals.

So far, I am living with it. Actually... happy to have it.

I may swap the foot pedal with one that matches the hi-hat

The Supreme Hi-Hat Flange

Now for a post about the problem I am facing with the flange.

See the pix

The last shot in this series of shots tells the tale.

The threads are stripped inside the flange. It was only today that I looked closely enough to see this was the problem.

It needs to be filled and retapped.

I am exploring filler alternatives.

After an hour or so of looking at solutions...

I found Plaist-Aid. There are many others, but this was the smallest and least expensive kit I have found.

The approach is to 1) drill out the hole, 2) apply a light coat of oil to the tilter screw, 3) wrap the screw with the prepared plastic filler and 4) insert the screw and filller in the widened hole. Some technique will need to be applied to prevent over filling, possibly clear plastic tape. Once set, remove the tape and the screw should then operate in the new threads it created while the plastic set up around it.

Well that is the theory anyway.

Risks:

There is not a lot of room to wide the hole and still retain the original contour.

Also, I have no explanation for the recessed area on the flange on top of the screw hole. I can find no closeup pictures of the original assembly. The above approach will work, but if I am wondering if I am missing something.

More later...

Sometimes running a tap through it will clean up the thread enough for the bolt to grab. I would try this first.

You might be able to get part of a heli coil in there for thread repair. I think I'd try that first. Or possibly a thin nut glued in the recess area. It would be hidden by the base plate and fiber washer. You can file/shave the thickness of the nut until it sits flush in there.

Thank you for the many excellent suggestions.

Having looked closely at each, and others from the autoparts store guru and engineers at the firehouse, I thought I would try simple and least invasive first.

I filled the hole on the flange with Elmer’s glue, put sewing machine oil on the screw, threaded it into place and let set over night. Its working. Lets see how it takes a pounding.

I am giving it a week.

Pix

This evening I had a few minutes to put together the pix and respond properly to this very accurate and appreciated comment.

Yes the snare guard is/was upside down. Two screws and a flip and now its back in place.

Pictures here

Thanks Adam for taking the time to respond. Sorry for the delay.

What a Fathers Day !!

A few weeks ago, I saw an ad on Craigslist for six vintage drum cases for $30. I was in need and that was my price range. But the distance, 35 miles caused me to pass. Yesterday, a see a second set from most likely from the same guy. Being Fathers Day, I decided to treat myself.

The seller was a man who shared that love for vintage drums, and who's collection was impressive.

It was a great conversation hearing all the kits he has had over the years. I shared with him my restoration story and mentioned the few pieces I was still looking for. He paused for a moment and then went inside. He came out moments later with two I have been watching for for months.

Today I got that Ludwig cowbell AND a Rogers throne in addition to the cases I had come for originally all for a price that was within my budget.

Today was a great Fathers Day !!

Pix here

Yesterday I used a damp cloth to wipe down the interior and exterior of the drum cases. They are in use today protecting my prized vintage drum set as well as providing a little more room in the music equipment storage room while the kit is not in use.

Today I spent some time on the Ludwig Chicago cowbell and Rogers cowbell mount (mount was purchased about a year ago).

The cowbell came with a no name mount. That is being put away for now.

Using a soft hand towel, I polished the outside and inside removing the dirt and as possible the interior rust.

This is a lightly used cowbell. The exterior has marks on the copper finish from use. But the edges are smooth, there are no dents and overall shows no signs of abuse.

The interior shows its age. There is surface rust throughout but the chrome is principally in tact. The flaking areas of the chrome were what prompted me to take the more gentle approach of polishing with a hand towel. Even while gently wiping, two chips came off.

I chose the Ludwig Chicago because of its classic sound, value and that it is period correct. The Rogers brand alternatives have been few and far between and the couple I have seen have been well out of my price range.

Its sitting on my desk for now while I can enjoy one of my Fathers Day treasures.

Pix here