Yes I think your fix is a good one because it's non-invasive, so to speak. I've seen those bad glue-down jobs too and they look....bad. The [more permanent] solution would be to find a way to glue the wrap down extremely neatly. What comes to mind is masking the surrounding areas and spraying 3M77 on the ends of the wrap and the shell.

No hurry though....:)

Mitch

Mitch Yes if the crack were in a bit more of a straight line

then I would be more confident about a method like that

as it was I used long strips of the 3mm packing tape

pressed down firmly on the outside of the wrap

on both sides of the crack to form a pair of handles of sorts

Just to help draw the separation between the edges together with a greater amount of pulling leverage

than that which my bare hands could apply

and even with doing this

There seems to be just a little too much drum shell for the remaining amount of wrap

the gap is no longer able to close completely

If I had a wide strip of donor material I would cut the wrap straight along the seam

and then rejoin the "S" shaped crack

back together carefully and completely using your method

and then cover the gap created at the original seem with the strip of donor material

there would be an extra seam but that ugly "S" shaped gap would be hardly noticable

I have heads on the bass drum and 12" so far

for me on these Japanese kits

the one 12" tom up

looks much nicer I think than the double toms

particularly those with 20" bass drum and rail mount

I think it gives the kit more of that vintage vibe overall

Those smaller rail consolette bass drums

somehow look a little goofy with the double toms on the rail

the ends of the two bayonet mounts sort of conflict with each other

and you can't really bring the two toms together close

Just something about the look that I dislike

also the dull finish on my 13" drum sort of takes away from the other drums

which a re shaping up Great

Unfortunately I got another little surprise

As it turns out ,I am twelve tension rods short

the twelve tension rods that are available

will work on the 13" drum which I could do without

but are a quarter inch too short to use on the floor tom which of course I need

so I can not finish assembly on the floor tom until I can find some GRRRRRR!!!!!!

Here is what so far on these Zim Gars

They look just great and I prefer the one up on a rail mount too, totally hear ya on the conflicting bayonet ends. And, a 12" with a 20" for sure.

Good idea on the repair if you can get some donor wrap. Are you eyeing the 9X13? You said you could do without it...I dunno is it worth it to fix the floor tom?...I can't decide.

Lol.

[edit] I just looked at the pictures again and I don't think you should sacrifice the 13". That was a terrible idea you came up with! Because this is the kit you maybe paid a little more than usual, you should try to get a little $$ back on it. I think the kit's fine without it but not worth sacrificing it for that relatively minor crack.

Mitch

LOL Yeah Mitch,

I did consider the 13" as a donor but it would be bad mojo

to trash a decent drum

for what would amount to something a little wider than an inlay's size piece of donor wrap (only with the pattern in the wrap going in the proper direction of course)

and beside it being just a real no no

it also is not tall enough to give me a one piece fix

So I would just be shoveling sand against the tide on that one

Although the crack does not look or feel very minor

and seems rather major from my angle LOL

Heck the main reason I went for the kit was the floor tom

As I have a Lyra 22" 13" and matching snare in the blue (green) oyster pearl already

Anyway my little fifty dollar Zim Gar stage band style kit

came with the four drums and some original but damaged hardware

One major component that is missing is the original bayonet mount

On this kit the rod on the bayonet mount is much larger than the average

and all I have are the average smaller type

The piece shown standing in is a section of an original cymbal stand

(the base has one of the three legs broken away from the main casting)

The tube into the bass drum reciever is original

as is the adjusting clamp which holds the bayonet rod

which again was too large to use one of my regular sized bayonet mounts with

as it turns out the mid section of the broken original cymbal stand

Is the perfect size to mate with the adjusting clamp

and then the thumb screw

That would normally adjust the top section of the cymbal stand

is working okay to secure the smaller bayonet mounting rod from moving once firmly tightened

I just want to try and figue out how long the original one was

and what to use to make a nice clean cut once I have that measurment

The seller knows she has that original piece along with some other things in a bag somewhere but of course she can not locate them

Well looka here what I have! I did cut it down a bit with a dremmel to fit the smaller diamond mounts, but I think it would still function well. In fact I know it does as I've used it on both.

Ten bucks plus shipping? Let me know...

That's a drag the one shell you really wanted has the crack.

Mitch

Mitch ....Oh Hell yes indeed

pack it up buddy

Okay I'm a little embarrassed by this. Somehow I missed/forgot, and pics did not show - I modified this tom mount to stay locked [bolted] at one angle, which worked for me at the time. You can take the bolt out, but I ground off all 3 of the adjustment "tines" or whatever they're called. So without the bolt it's gonna slide down until the tom is resting on the BD...or something like that.

Obviously you can still have the part, and in fact the angle with the bolt in place will probably work for you, as it was intended to place the tom in a playable position for a human being lol. Also know that the nut does not create a "bottoming out" situation with the tightening of the top arm. It tightens down real good.

But I don't know about ten bucks now, since the part is modified. Let me know what you think.

On a different topic I just noticed the rims on the kit you pictured look die cast...s'up wid dat? :)

Mitch

Mitch Okay so how about twenty-five cents for the piece

With about nineteen dollars and seventy-five cents toward shipping ?

Or any combination of numbers that would hopefully not exceed that overall total ...wink!

Yeah man die cast on these sweet little Zim Gar stage-banders

or at least imitation die cast hoops if there is such a thing

The bass drum hoops are really warped on this kit also

but incredably I have two perfect replacements with inlays and all

Very cool never seen die cast on MIJ ever....some stick savers that looked cast, but never the real deal.

I'll ship the part Monday and we'll go from there. Think I sent you something before, but deleted most messages in inbox - send me a PM with your addy...

...and Rock On!

Mitch