it was done on a blackberry , so that's why the resolution is about as good as it can be-----no macro . i don't have a camera currently that can give a really good magnified picture but here is what I see.
The joint is more evident on the batter side than on the snare side but it can still be seen, here and there. European Beech is a really fine grained wood----more like our Hickory than our Beech and the joinery on this shell is immaculate, so the joint is fine, not like some drum shells where the wood is so porous and the craftsmanship so uncrafty that you could stick a pencil in between the plys. In the holes ,using a 10x lens , I see a dark line about midway.
There are two areas where the shell has been beveled and joined but each one crosses only to midline. Number one is from the inside,at the inside overlap seam, going to the middle, for about an inch at a 15 degree angle.Let's say, it goes counterclockwise from 12:00 to 11:45. Then continue to follow that strip as the inside 1/2 of the shell,counterclockwise, all the way around and back to 12:00 where the inside half rises up over that first bevel then countinues as the outside half of the shell to about 12:03 where another 15 degree bevel goes from the midline to the outside until about 11:58, merging with the shoulder of the inside half as it lifts up over the first bevel to become the outside half. The shell is made like a jellyroll. If there weren't two layers, why would there need to be two bevel joints in order to glue it together? For a brief distance of the shell's circumference, where the two beveled overlaps are joined, there is actually 3 layers of wood. This form of construction doesn't invalidate it being a solid shell drum , it is just a solid rolled shell .