Not to disagree with any other advice for this repair... Just putting forward my own approach and with a reasonable amount of expertee..

I do maintain for that "rather unique" repair Super glue will work... If the veneer separations were more accessible I would use a conventional wood glue (as I usually do)..

Those open edged separations will allow the thin super glue to run deep into the separations/cracks... IMO not enough substance left in that fragmented ply... and it would hardened/ doped by the process.

I have often used Super Glue to repair/fill minor separation of bearing edges... the main downside being that it will darken the grain..

Cheers

John

I worked at the Gibson acoustic factory for about 8 years. They used hide glue in the neck joints when I first started. I think it was a tradition thing. They started using regular Titebond glue sometime in the 90's. Hide glue is interesting stuff. It is not easy to work with and there are much better choices. And the smell.....

Thin 'super glue' could work quite well. However, I'd agree with J!M that it can be brittle especially on a spot where that is going to have a pedal clamped and be under various pressures (tension, torsion, compression, shear?!) There was quite a bit of that stuff used at the Gibson factory, too. I don't like the way it behaves under repeated stresses. It is great for lots of other things.

I think I'd go the thin/ slow cure epoxy route. Make some clamping blocks like Creighton said. There is some stuff that the carbon fiber molding guys use called 'release film.' It is supposed to keep the epoxy resins from sticking to things that you don't want stuck. Kind of like a special plastic wrap. I'd give that a try to keep the blocks from sticking to the hoop.

Like John said anything that saturates into the grain will darken it. And anything that squeezes out once clamped might be an adventure to remove after it dries.

:2Cents:

Thanks very much guys ! Appreciate all the advice and suggestions. As most of you may have already guessed, there's no way i'm taking on this difficult task by myself :confused: LOL !

I've already contacted my buddy at my local drum shop and he's looking into ordering a hoop in the natural vintage finish, but i told him that i'd be checking out the Luthier first before i'd give him the go-ahead to order the hoop.. I'm really optimistic and think that the hoop can be salvaged..My guitar player took a look at the hoop and says that a luthier can probably fix it with no problem.. We'll wait and see and i will keep all posted, since there's a good amount of curiosity running about concerning this seemingly impossible repair project .. ;)

cheers,

Rob

So i brought the hoop in to a Luthier for repair, and both he and his partner says they will attempt the repair it and told me what they'd be doing. He also said that he'd never worked on something like a bass drum hoop or any drum before, and would do his best to get it repaired. He's basically going to carefully separate the warped plies and let the glue seep in between them, and will then use the metal clamps to bond them together, while covering it with plastic wrap or whatever material he said he'd use.. He made no guarantees that the hoop would stay in round, but he placed it on the counter table and said that even though it's damaged, it still lays flat.. Should be ready by next week.

I also plan to restain the hoop in it's original finish and then lacquer with 2 coats.

I'll be doing the same with the undamaged hoop as well. I'll post pics of the hoop after it's back from the shop and then after i'm done with restain...