The guy that sold us our 6.5x14 bronze shells has two more on the 'Bay with

a BIN of $155 + shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slingerland-Brass-Drum-Shell-6-5x14-American-Made-1975-/130545971099?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e65256f9b

MW

That SOB didn't know the value of what he had when he first started selling the shells off. I got mine shipped for under $100. I was lucky to snag one of the early sales because as you can see, he has literally doubled the Buy It Now price of the shells since the sale began. Slickster...

Still a STEAL at $155.00

John

I am pretty sure the NOS Slingy shell I ordered doesnt have snare beds. Does anyone know how I might be able to "crimp" the beds? Do I need to?

Thanks for any info you might have!

James

James, some of those shells were Timbale' shells! No snare beds! I have crimped beds on mine, but they used a machine tool to put that bend in there. I have no idea how you'd do it using 'home-owner tools.'

Suggestion: Super-sensitives don't have snare beds because the snares overlap the head on both sides. You might want to consider using a super-sensitive type set-up on the shell. Just a thought.

John

Ouch. It was advertised as a snare shell, but I should have paid better attention I guess. Thanks for the suggestion John! Well, lets see what I can make out of this one. I am still hopeful it will turn out great and be playable :)

Thanks again,

James

Shell was delivered yesterday. Just wanted to post a before pic :).

James, you lucky dog! That looks like a copper shell to me bro! Jackpot! Copper shells make for some great sounding snare drums. Ask around. Experienced guys will rave about their copper snares.

DON'T TOUCH THAT PATINA! It's gorgeous!

There were some drums made that didn't have snare beds but I'll be damned if I can remember which company. Somebody chime in here and help me. I'll do some research for you. Let's see what I find about snares with no beds. There -is- such a thing!

Can't wait to see the finished drum!

John

*James, Here's an article about snare beds...

Snare Bed - Ron Dunnett

Of all of the details and attention to detail that is paid to the various aspects and components that make up a snare drum, the snare bed is probably the most neglected and misunderstood part of the instrument.

Think back to all of the literature you have seen and read about drums and drumming and see if you remember any sort of discussion regarding snare beds. My guess is that like myself, you really won't recall much at all. I'm not sure why this is. Perhaps some companies don't have a grasp on the importance of the snare beds and the role it plays in determining how a snare drum will perform. And it's been my experience that some of them have occasionally forgotten to even install them, let alone discuss them! This was one of the reasons I began making drums...

History

Snare beds appear to have been in use since the earliest days of drum building when the beds were hand hewn with a wood file. While they were somewhat crudely placed, they were some of the best

Definition

The snare bed is the indentation or dip that is located on the bottom bearing edge of the snare drum shell and centered under both the snare release and the butt plate. The length and depth and contour of the beds vary greatly among builders and manufacturers. It is located between the lugs that are located on either side of the throw off and butt end. The snare bed is one of five elements that go into the making of the snare function, the other four being the release mechanism, the snare head, the snare attachment and the snare wire set.

Adjustment Axis

It is important to understand that the snare wire adjustment operates on both horizontal and vertical axis.

The vertical axis is the movement of the snare wire set 'into' the drum head. This adjustment controls the amount of snare set tension, deflection and recoil of the snare set and thus the sensitivity and response of the drum. Deflection and recoil may also be effected by the means used to attached the snares to the throw off and butt.

Snare set control as a Product of Bed Depth

On Dunnett Classic snare drums the range of control is evident in the amount of usable vertical travel. An effective way to illustrate this concept is to take a piece of plastic food wrap and stretch it over the bottom of your snare drum in place of the head so that the surface ofthe film is taught. Next, take a yardstick and lay it across the covered bottom of the drum so that it lies in the center of the drum where the snare wires would normally lie. With one hand on each end of the yard stick push down until you feel the stick touch the bottom of the snare beds. The distance that you are able to push down is the amount of vertical travel your drum has to work with. What happens in a drum that has shallow beds or no beds at all is that vertical travel is limited or non-existant. In this condition virtually any tension that is applied via the throw off mechanism merely stretches the wires along the horizontal surface of the head. Stretching the snare wires in this way severly restricts the movement of the drum head and snare set deflection, thus choking the drum.

Unless the drum is equipped with an adjustable butt end or an independant horizontal tensioning system (ie: Dynasonic), independant horizontal and vertical adjustments cannot be made. In the case of the Rogers Dynasonic system, a bed was not required because the wire set did not extend past the bearing edges and thus it was still possible to have some vertical adjustment. See diagram 1. Independent tensioning systems that do extend past the head do require snare beds. Most snare drums to do not come equipped with an independant horizontal adjustment system and thus they rely on the snare bed... As the snare set is being tensioned from a slack position it is actually being drawn up into the head (vertical axis). When the tension has increased to the point where the wires have "bottomed out" on the snare beds and the snare wire set can no longer up into the head a transition that occurs and any further tensioning past the bottoming point is strictly horizontal - the wires are merely being stretched across the surface of the head. This is usually a problem in snare drums that have shallow or non existent snare beds as this usually results in the drum "choking".

'Choking' is a term used to describe a condition in which the snare wire set and/or the heads have been over tensioned to the point where the snare wires no longer function effectively (negative deflection) or the heads no longer resonate freely. A drum that has a deep snare bed substantially decreases the possiility of choking through an increased range of vertical adjustment.

John,

Copper shell? Cool! I thought it looked very much like copper when I took it out of the box, but wasn't sure. Thanks for that article as well. It was very informative! I had no idea that some companies made snares with no beds! Now, I am really intrigued :). I'm going to do some checking around myself, but please let me know if you come across any other information too. I am really looking forward to getting this project started. Thanks again John!

James

> Copper shell? Cool!

James, unless the color your camera reproduces is FUBAR...

that sucker looks just like an old Lincoln penny! :2Cents::2Cents::2Cents::2Cents:

It's not only copper... it's copper with one of the most beautiful age patina's I think I've ever seen. It's a spectacular looking metal drum shell. It's going to make a spectacular sounding drum as well!

Man, I'm as excited as you are to see that one finished. Yes Sir

I'm voting for Beavertails on that one! As for the beds, it appears the answer according to Dunett, is an independent tensioning system (adjustable butt plate).

I'll tell you what... I have an antique strainer from a 1910 Oliver Ditson snare drum that has just been collecting dust around here. It'll make a -PERFECT- adjustable butt plate for your snare! (see photos)

All you'll need will be a nice vintage repro 3-point strainer on the other end and you won't need any beds! PM me your name and mailing info, I will mail you the part. It'll be my contribution to helping you complete your drum.

John

Wow, John/Purdie- I never knew that (about snare beds)!!!! I know now that I don't have to cut snare beds if I don't want to for my NOS Gretsch 5" x 14" silver sparkle nitron snare drum (in case it doesn't have beds). I will have to use a vintage strainer, but that's okay with me!!!! I have a Slingerland snare strainer just like the strainer you have pictured. It's nickel plated, but I think the aesthetic would go well with a vintage-looking Ludwig. Which Ludwig strainer do I AVOID and which one is okay?

And James- that is one gorgeous shell!!! While I like Purdie's idea of Beavertails, I would vote for brass tube lugs that you remove the clear coat so that they patina the same way as the shell!!!! But that's me, and maybe they would would look weird with a chrome strainer and you should go with chrome Beavertails.