I use all types of sandpaper, sponges, just whatever works for the exact spot I am in. As long as I am only closing the grain, that is the whole point of this exercise, not to really take away much wood.
Blake, it is the Ts that do it. As far as I know, Pearl did not use that type. This is just one of those early kits we may never be able to find out for sure, like mine.
I use all types of sandpaper, sponges, just whatever works for the exact spot I am in. As long as I am only closing the grain, that is the whole point of this exercise, not to really take away much wood.
Yep, me too..... Just wondering why Wayne says not to...
And the final step for me is a waxing of the edges.
I use paraffin, actually.
It lays down those little wood fibers that remain sticking up no matter how fine a sandpaper you use.
You can't see them, but they are there.
Yes Sir
Regarding the maker of this set: If the snare is original to this set, and judging by the condition and color of the wrap, there is no reason to think it is not, I still maintain that this is a Pearl made set. Look at the red sparkle Pearl snare below. These are the exact same lugs as the gold sparkle snare, and the screw layout for the strainer is the same as well.
Also, Pearl had the round 'canister' strainers that are seen in the La Boz catalog scans. Has anyone seen any Star set with the chrome lettering script logos? Has anyone seen Star sets with a stata type wrap? (not the diamond pearl strand wrap.) What I'm getting at is that I am starting to think that Star didn't come onto the scene until maybe '67 or '68 and any MIJ before that is going to be Pearl manufactured. Star made drums are so consistent; oval 'World's Supreme' badges, grey painted interiors (if no re-rings,) either teardrop or sling copy lugs, etc. So I am thinking that Star may have only been producing drums from between '67-'72 or so, before they dropped out of the scene, handed off the stencil names to Pearl (Apollo, Stewart, US Mercury) and geared up to become Tama.
I cant account for the t-rods, however, I haven't seen enough sets with them. I think there were actually more t-rod designs back then (on both Pearl and Star) than we think.
..uh dude, I got like....maybe $168.14, and about 8 hours in them...wanna check 'em out?
I maybe have $70 into mine and 4 hours labor. I'll admit, I am kind of spolied as I work at a new & used music store and I get my heads at a little over cost, not to mention I scored the kit there. No one wanted to go near the kit all stacked up, missing heads and what not.
The worst part was searching for and replacing the swivel nuts on the bottoms of my 12" and 14" toms and that didn't even take all too long.
Working on posting pics...
Sanding sponges clog up easier and are designed to rinse in water to un clog them.Water and wood are enemies so i avoid that moisture contact.It takes years for shells to mellow naturally,and its this drying or curing that i believe lend itself to great sounding shells.Any time you sand wood unless you,re removing paint or stain only need to done so using a light touch following the grain and in small areas at a time.You can remove dust with a tack cloth...Its been my experience to keep water away from drum shells.
Sanding sponges clog up easier and are designed to rinse in water to un clog them.Water and wood are enemies so i avoid that moisture contact.It takes years for shells to mellow naturally,and its this drying or curing that i believe lend itself to great sounding shells.Any time you sand wood unless you,re removing paint or stain only need to done so using a light touch following the grain and in small areas at a time.You can remove dust with a tack cloth...Its been my experience to keep water away from drum shells.
Yep, I would avoid using a wet sanding sponge as well.
I have also noticed a good bit of exterior ply separation due to what I believe is seating a calf skin head while it is too wet.
....wow...sponges are designed to be rinsed...didn't know that..Coffee Break2..I always just beat them on the floor and go back to work....really.....? never thought to rinse my sanding sponges with water, or any liquid....Hmmmm...now Spongebob Squarepants...he gets a good rinsing....but not Spongedrum SandingBlock....just a good whackin' on the floor does it for him...
Finally got it done. My friend found some of the missing parts so here it is all together. Nice looking set and it sounds good too. Only big problem I had was the snare drum was too large for most heads; had to trim the wrap to get heads on and even then a very old Ludwig batter and Aquarian American vintage were the only heads that would go on.
[IMG]http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs354.snc3/29323_426076037436_322005447436_5506749_3413916_n.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs334.snc3/29323_426076052436_322005447436_5506751_4345065_n.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs343.ash1/29323_426076067436_322005447436_5506753_7508952_n.jpg[/IMG]
Nicely done! Looking good!
So you have an old Ludwig batter head on the snare and a Aquarina American Vintage snare side, is that correct? What heads do you have on the tom and bass drum? Looks like a PS3 on the bass batter?
How does the snare sound?
You are correct on the snare set up. It sounds really good actually, I was pretty impressed. A nice woody tone. The bass has a clear pinstripe on the batter with a felt strip and the original super thin resonant. The resonant needs felt too, but I didn't happen to have any around. The tom has an Attack single ply and some single ply on the resonant.
I had to just use whatever heads I had to fit his budget (all like new/new except the snare batter, which is in great shape for being probably 50 years old!), but everything sounds really good together.
