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Donked Up WFL Floor Tom Help

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Thank You, but long way to go still.

Have never done it, but will toss this out for discussion. Clean and give a slight scuff to the 2nd ply. Same for the lifted outer ply underside.

Next I would use as many of Jeff C's bendable braces as you can fit to hold interior of the shell in present shape. Check for "in round". If out by more than an 1/8" will need to get some expert help.

If the outer ply lifting can be pressed down without breaking, good. If not I would use a steam iron blasting away from 6" or so to get the outer layer ready to conform to the shell. Don't want any water getting under the area's to be glued.

Yours I would glue all at once. The interior of shell has been braced, force glue as deep as you can and wax paper the outer to avoid sticking. Multiple "Cargo Straps" pulled firm with any luck will bring the outer layer tight to the shell.

Don't do anything until others chime in.

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 8 years ago
#11
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From OddBall

You would have to take all those ply`s and soak them, then brush them with liquid glue and roll them under pressure to save it. The pitting says the lugs will never be smooth again.

Are you sure all of that is necessary for getting this drum in playable condition? It seems that the damage is only to the outer ply of the shell, and only in the one area I took pictures of. If what you described is necessary for fixing this, then yeah it might make a good flower pot or table. :p

You're right about the lugs, though... Still, they're cleaning up surprisingly well (see photo). Most of the nickel is gone, but that's ok!

From longjohn

Holy Makeral... That's a challenge...You may pick up a few clues from this thread starting around page 2 for the ply repairs.. but start with the rings would be my suggestion..http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=55376CheersJohn

Starting with the reinforcement rings sounds like a good plan, thank you for the suggestion! I will glue and clamp those first unless someone says otherwise.

From Creighton

Thank You, but long way to go still.Have never done it, but will toss this out for discussion. Clean and give a slight scuff to the 2nd ply. Same for the lifted outer ply underside.Next I would use as many of Jeff C's bendable braces as you can fit to hold interior of the shell in present shape. Check for "in round". If out by more than an 1/8" will need to get some expert help.If the outer ply lifting can be pressed down without breaking, good. If not I would use a steam iron blasting away from 6" or so to get the outer layer ready to conform to the shell. Don't want any water getting under the area's to be glued.Yours I would glue all at once. The interior of shell has been braced, force glue as deep as you can and wax paper the outer to avoid sticking. Multiple "Cargo Straps" pulled firm with any luck will bring the outer layer tight to the shell. Don't do anything until others chime in.Creighton

Ahh yes, cargo straps! Thank you for the idea, those will probably work for this application. Also, the wood seems like it can be pressed down just fine, I tried putting a bunch of clamps on it just to test it out, and there didn't seem to be any issues. I figured I would try gluing it back down, and if that doesn't work I'll have a nice piece of furniture... I don't really have all the tools and experience for steaming the shell and whatnot. CryBaby

Do you think that the internal bracing is 100% necessary for keeping the drum in round? If so, I'll see what I can rig up. I thought Mr. Cabinets just used them because the damage on his drum was on the interior.

Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone! Group Hug

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Posted on 8 years ago
#12
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I don't think you would need interior bracing, if using cargo straps the force will be uniform around drum.(much like road culvert won,t fail when buried). I would think biggest problem would be making sure all pieces fall into place, with no overlaps.

Posted on 8 years ago
#13
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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From 11frozentreat11

Are you sure all of that is necessary for getting this drum in playable condition? It seems that the damage is only to the outer ply of the shell, and only in the one area I took pictures of. If what you described is necessary for fixing this, then yeah it might make a good flower pot or table. :pYou're right about the lugs, though... Still, they're cleaning up surprisingly well (see photo). Most of the nickel is gone, but that's ok!Starting with the reinforcement rings sounds like a good plan, thank you for the suggestion! I will glue and clamp those first unless someone says otherwise.Ahh yes, cargo straps! Thank you for the idea, those will probably work for this application. Also, the wood seems like it can be pressed down just fine, I tried putting a bunch of clamps on it just to test it out, and there didn't seem to be any issues. I figured I would try gluing it back down, and if that doesn't work I'll have a nice piece of furniture... I don't really have all the tools and experience for steaming the shell and whatnot. CryBabyDo you think that the internal bracing is 100% necessary for keeping the drum in round? If so, I'll see what I can rig up. I thought Mr. Cabinets just used them because the damage on his drum was on the interior.Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone! Group Hug

I`m seeing voids and bumps, that could go into other plies under. I`m worried about vibrations from the voids.

Wow, the lugs may not come smooth, but you did a more than acceptable clean on them, great job. How are the threads ?

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 8 years ago
#14
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From burgundy

I don't think you would need interior bracing, if using cargo straps the force will be uniform around drum.(much like road culvert won,t fail when buried). I would think biggest problem would be making sure all pieces fall into place, with no overlaps.

That's what I was thinking too. I'll wait a bit and see if anyone else has any input on this too. Thanks! Clapping Happy2

From OddBall

I`m seeing voids and bumps, that could go into other plies under. I`m worried about vibrations from the voids. Wow, the lugs may not come smooth, but you did a more than acceptable clean on them, great job. How are the threads ?

Just out of curiosity - what would happen if I were to assemble and play this drum in its current condition? (I'm not going to do it, I'm just wondering!)

Would it totally fall apart over time, or just sound terrible? I'm not familiar with the implications of this sort of damage to the shell...

Surprisingly, all of the threads are intact! I have all of the hardware clean and ready to go now... Rough, but clean. Party

I suppose I'll start trying to fix the reinforcement ring soon, unless someone says otherwise. Thanks again everyone!

Posted on 8 years ago
#15
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Here's a picture of all the hardware. Everything was VERY rusty before. :D

Also - the drum is missing 2 tension rods/clips and the legs... If anyone has any crusty old parts that will work with this, I'll gladly buy them. If not, I'll just have to get some shiny new parts for the time being. Walking

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Posted on 8 years ago
#16
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I think you'd be surprised how well the drum would stand up the way it is.

Posted on 8 years ago
#17
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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From 11frozentreat11

That's what I was thinking too. I'll wait a bit and see if anyone else has any input on this too. Thanks! Clapping Happy2Just out of curiosity - what would happen if I were to assemble and play this drum in its current condition? (I'm not going to do it, I'm just wondering!)Would it totally fall apart over time, or just sound terrible? I'm not familiar with the implications of this sort of damage to the shell...Surprisingly, all of the threads are intact! I have all of the hardware clean and ready to go now... Rough, but clean. PartyI suppose I'll start trying to fix the reinforcement ring soon, unless someone says otherwise. Thanks again everyone!

That`s a good question. I think it will vibrate. I also think if you glue everything up tight, and voids or lifts are still in it, when you assemble it they may put pressure on the glued areas again. Like a cracked baseball bat, you can hear it and know it will break soon.

The other hopeful side says that you may not encounter any problems at all. You deserve to have success, you are doing a fine job with the trim and seeking the right choices.

You owe us pics of the finished drum though.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 8 years ago
#18
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From jerrysterken

I think you'd be surprised how well the drum would stand up the way it is.

That's good to hear! :)

From OddBall

That`s a good question. I think it will vibrate. I also think if you glue everything up tight, and voids or lifts are still in it, when you assemble it they may put pressure on the glued areas again. Like a cracked baseball bat, you can hear it and know it will break soon. The other hopeful side says that you may not encounter any problems at all. You deserve to have success, you are doing a fine job with the trim and seeking the right choices. You owe us pics of the finished drum though.

Is there no "easy" way to address these voids, other than the way you mentioned previously in the thread? Would using glue or wood filler in them totally kill the resonance of the shell?

I'll continue to post pictures of the process, don't worry! Jumping2

Posted on 8 years ago
#19
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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From 11frozentreat11

That's good to hear! :)Is there no "easy" way to address these voids, other than the way you mentioned previously in the thread? Would using glue or wood filler in them totally kill the resonance of the shell?I'll continue to post pictures of the process, don't worry! Jumping2

It`s the way plywood is constructed. Sometimes knots get exposed in finish work I do because I have no way to see them till after I cut. When I cut through a hidden knot the blade rips out chunks and I start again.

The layers are 100% coated with glue to prevent vibrations with drums, same with wrap. Sure there are tapes and seam methods but all factories 100% adhesion is essential in the build.

When plies separate, only a heavy roller would ensure 100% contact

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 8 years ago
#20
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