Rat rot... I like that term! Cool Dude

I guess now I should assemble a Rat Rot set...

Which would be better for preserving the current state of the finish - wax or clear spray?

I don't mind if the wood is darkened by the wax, that might actually help cover up the stains currently on the drum Cool Dude

I'd like just use whatever works best for keeping the remaining paint on the drum and protecting it, but I'm not sure what that is (or if it will be possible). Help2

I don't really want it to shine like new or anything... After all, it is a "rat rot" drum :p

Rat Rot is great.

As you can see bit of chin wagging on going per the best top coat finish :-).

Hope others chime in.

Whatever you choose, will want the shell free of dirt/grime.

Let the thread run a couple of days before any action.

Creighton

I'll make sure it's all good and clean, don't worry!

Working on the shell is going to take at least a few more days anyways, so that's good timing. I'll be sure to consult with google as well and see what he has to say, if anything.

Thank you for all of your suggestions! Group Hug

If you are considering a spray pack... Just first dab a damp cloth over a sample section of the bare timber bits... Whilst still damp, this will indicate the tone that the timber will take on when clear coated... Unfortunately the flaws, dark stains, grain cracks etc are usually highlighted...

But have fun anyhow..

John

Ahh, I see what you mean now. I'm alright with that look as long as it protects the drum, though. Thanks for your information!

Does anyone else have any input on wax vs. clear spray? I'll wait a few days before deciding.

After a little bit of research, it looks like the wax would need to be buffed, which would probably knock off a lot of paint. I'm leaning towards clear spray, but any input is appreciated!

Thanks again everyone! :)

Good that you are taking your time. I too hope to see more suggestions. My two issues with clear coat is it was not applied from the factory during this period and the effect it would have on bits of paint just barely hanging on.

When waxed mine it was all by hand with micro-fibre towels. Figured whatever paint came off would have at some point anyway.

Creighton

That's true, there are lots of paint bits I would be worried about when spraying this drum.

Do you have any pictures of the drums that you waxed? I was leaning towards the clear because I read some other forum posts saying wax doesn't work well without a lathe, etc etc. But if you and others had good results doing it by hand, that sounds best to me!

Here you go. I have no idea how a lathe would be of any use in this application.

Creighton

I guess for the buffing part or something? I'm not sure. baby crawl2

Nice, those turned out awesome! How many coats of wax did you use? Was there anything to your method other than putting the wax on and buffing?

The only thing that concerns me is that yours look like they were already in decent shape, and there isn't a bit of paint that isn't checking on mine. Do you think I would still get results as good as yours?

Thanks! Group Hug

Thanks, yes those drums lived in cases for 70+ years. Matters not.

That is at least 20 coats of wax, with a hard polish every 3 coats or so. I think another 10 coats and I will be happy.

Can't say how well yours will turn out. Slow and tedious polishing is the key.

Creighton