A good sanding and some paint should be all these need. Any suggestions on a brand of black paint?
1964 Ludwig Clubdate -Newbie- In way over his head!
Do you really think I'll have a hard time? The top rim's goes on overly easy with a head and Remo rim. Has a gap. Even spins. The bottom ones are a tighter fit. Goes on, but does not freely spin - more snug at the moment.
Yes I know you will. The shells are oversized. the shells that have wrap on them are made smaller with a smaller diameter to allow for the wrap. You can wrap them then find this out for yourself. you can wrap them you'll just have to cut the wrap shorter length wise to allow for the head contact.
Yes I know you will. The shells are oversized. the shells that have wrap on them are made smaller with a smaller diameter to allow for the wrap. You can wrap them then find this out for yourself. you can wrap them you'll just have to cut the wrap shorter length wise to allow for the head contact.
Hey Vintagemore2000, thanks for your input. I did not know that. I swear - I'm learning so much everyday. This stuff is way different then vintage microphones, basses and guitars.
Question:
When you cut the wrap shorter, Is the shell visable - or can you get it tight so it is not?
When painting the interior white, do you go over and around the bearing edge - or should you stay away from painting the bearing edge?
Some of the shell will be visible but once the heads are on it will cover that up. But you already stated the heads fit tight on one side of the shell is this on just the bare shell? I am not at my house right now let me go look at one of my clubdate kits to see if the bearing edges are painted, mY super classic kits are painted all the way to the top of the shell.
Some of the shell will be visible but once the heads are on it will cover that up. But you already stated the heads fit tight on one side of the shell is this on just the bare shell? I am not at my house right now let me go look at one of my clubdate kits to see if the bearing edges are painted, mY super classic kits are painted all the way to the top of the shell.
Yes - the heads are a bit of a tight fit on the reso side, bare shell. Sounds like I'll have to keep the wrap trim.
Thank you for checking - It is much appreciated.
Joe Mama,Welcome to the forum! Love your name...that is funny moniker Mr. Besser. Club dates are indeed pretty cool kits as they are the same shells as the top of the line Ludwig kits of the era. They saved money by using less hardware. Some guys fancy the idea of less hardware impeding shell vibrations, therefore, they may sound better than the top of the line kits. That is all a bit of speculation and personal opinion of course. Citristrip is generally pretty popular around here. I am curious to know more about what is going on with the interiors. Seems like someone may have been a Neal Peart fan back in the early 80's and perhaps tried their hand at a home made "vibra-fibe" job. There is also the possibility that there was some structural damage to the interior plies and someone tried to patch that up a bit. Regardless, that sounds like it is not a lot of fun. Is the exterior painted or what? As to the flat spots, it may be that the hardware was re-installed and tightened to within an inch of it's life, however, Airborne is correct in that a lot of Ludwig shells from the 60's suffer from humps and flat spots. Often this will show up at the scarf joint only, but I have seen drums with flay spots all the way around. You are definitely making the right move to paint the interiors white. I would think trying to come up with a great looking clear finish would be far more work than it is worth. As to the possibility of a black laquer finish, I believe we have seen some examples of Club Dates with those kinds of finishes. Really pay attention to how snug your heads fit PRIOR to jumping into a re-wrap. There are some tricks to getting the wrap to behave with tight fitting heads, but you want to know what you are dealing with before you spend the money and the time on a re-wrap. Bearing edges can be repaired pretty easily and cheaply by quite a few places around the country. If you are handy with a router you could probably of it yourself, but I would suggest practicing a bit first to make sure you know what is going on, otherwise you will eventually end up with a 3" deep mounted tom. You can certainly purchase rims from any of the supply houses as well as just about any music store if you are OK with a Gibralter or similar rim. These are just fine, work well and are fairly cheap, they are just not OEM. Since this will be a player's kit, it probably does not matter. The same is true for bass drum hoops. Gibralter makes some really pretty pre-finished maple hoops or black hoops. All of the drum supply houses carry unfinished Keller hoops with or without inlay grooves. Of course, you can always find used ones on eBay or check here. You can remove the Mapex legs, fill the holes with dowel rods prior to painting the interior and wrapping the exterior. Then pick up some period correct Ludwig leg mounts (about $17.00 each or so) and suitable legs. It looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you, but there are plenty of folks here WAAAY more experienced than myself that are always willing to help. You will end up with a really nice kit when you are done. Good luck and enjoy!
Hey Tsquint - can you direct me in finding some "period correct Ludwig leg mounts (about $17.00 each or so) and suitable legs."
Ive been searcing for clubdate legs and mounts for the floor tom on ebay - in chrome. Found a set for $125.00, but thats it?
here is an interior shot for you on one of my clubdate shells,
Some samples from Precision. The blue is a much thicker stock. Still waiting for my samples from Sam's
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