Steel wool and Sponge Bob... My hero!:D

Well,

As far as you guys promoting the use of steel wool, it will just have to be a case of agree to disagree. I just won't be buying any drums from you guys in the future (no offense). I just happened to stumble upon a kit I am going to buy tomorrow.....and learned that the seller is the original order (these are late 60s early 70s). As long as they did not use steel wool, it will be a nice example of an abrasion free specimen.

BTW: I learned that the seller also has a late 60s Slingerland BDP 5 piece kit they are about to sell as well. Please call me at 810-423-8026 if you are interested in this - in Michigan (they are asking about 500 for it). They have not yet went public with it.

Brian, your progress so far looks fabulous! I prefer (with no pillows, blankets, towels, etc.) the Aquarian Superkicks (Single ply) on my MIJs paired with a resonant head that is designed to go with it, like the Evans EQ3 Reso....these have muffling rings built in to them: AQ's is foam, Evan EQ reso has the ring but no foam. One MIJ kit I bought had these on it and it changed my BD head setup after using pillows and stuffing on my MIJs for the last 25 years. Another factor that makes a huge difference is wood hoops - but I see you are already blessed with those. Yeah, the fade of the wrap is something that is actually viewed as an appealing character feature on these kits, where, for example, some prefer the yellowed WMP to the bright white version of the same.

I recently bought some 3m products and when I have the time to try it on my Charcoal Pearl kit (very similar to BDP) I will report my results (with pics). I would agree not to install any mufflers that are not stock, especially no drilling. At the same time, if you plan on marrying your kit and not just dating her, do whatever you want with it. I prefer function over genuine originality, though also am now a user of bass drum anchors, instead of drilling and installing better legs on the old MIJs that had the stock small round spurs/legs. BTW: another secret on that is to install some sort of backing plate for more stability and less stress on the shell. This is a way to improve the functionality without sacrificing originality.

Having fun!

John

Oh John...

You mean you wouldn't buy a kit from me even if I steel wooled it while watching Sponge Bob!?!

I'm devastated! [snif]

BTW: another secret on that is to install some sort of backing plate for more stability and less stress on the shell. This is a way to improve the functionality without sacrificing originality.

Yep, great minds! Those thin shelled MIJ's do need some help. At first I tried some large washers. But, as I suspected, the washers would not allow you to cinch the bolt down without warping the shell. I went to shim stock. A couple pieces of shim stock on the leg (spur) mounts, the mounted cymbal lug and the tom mount works wonders, and conforms to the shell while adding the necessary strength to it.

Fisherman,

I'm not trying to imply anything about you or pick a fight or anything. As a matter of fact, I appreciate your sense of humor ("while watching Spongebob"!) I meant it more generally (for example a kit with a bunch of scratching from steel wool) as opposed to literally. I'm sure you are as frustrated as the next guy when you see some lugs with a bunch of scratching on it from SW, especially when that scratching extends to the shell-(where the owner did not even bother to remove the lugs from the shell before scratching the crap out of everything).

I appreciate the tip about the shim stock. It did cost me about $5 a pop for every backing plate, which add up between so many kits. I'm a guy on a tight budget.

I will post my pics of several of my kits when I get them done. I am due to finish up a beauty of a Red Onyx kit that I picked up for $100 last summer. As a side note to my earlier comments about modification and being true to originality/authenticity - I am building 10 inch add on toms to 2 of my MIJs. I just love to have a 5 piece instead of the 4 that they usually come in. I have been fortunate to find wrap that matched very well with 2 of my kits (though not for my Charcoal Pearl one).

John

First, what's "shim stock?". I was wondering about backing my cymbal mount. I used a piece of trimmed sheet metal that was already backing the bass spur, but I bent it with the drum. It seems to work.

I have a bass anchor in my rehersal space and will use it.

The Tama mufflers I was considering for my toms, but won't do anything until after the first date...then we'll see.

Question: I'd like to clean up and use the old Tom heads, their in decent condition, until I can purchase new heads. Any suggestions on how to clean a gummed up head? Products or proceeduces that are better or worse?

Thanks!

Yeah, I was about to ask the same thing - 'shim stock'??? As far as residue, I usually start with good old Goo Gone, and have had some success with acetone, though it can remove logos/branding as well, but sometimes the crud is so old, I've found it impossible to remove... anyone?

The bass drum hoops feel soft. After clamping on my pedal & bass anchor the first time, I noticed notches from the hardware clamps. Is this typical or should I protect the hoop with a thin piece of rubber or something?

Rian,..yes by all means proyect the hoop with something,...I started useing rubber strips from tire but rubber don`t grab tight and will loosen durring use. I fashioned two pieces of hardwood to the curvature so when I tighten down tight,..it digs in and holds very well !!

Ok. So I now know shim stock is spacer material, rather than a wedge, of wood, metal, etc... I'll assume wood shim stock is the material, but do you glue it or install it like a washer or standard metal backing plate?

Oddball, I'll probably try this shim stock on the hoop as well as the interior of the shell. We'll see what happens.

Always glue the reinforcement braces to prevent vibrating.

For the hoops,..I used pallet wood,..it`s ash or oak scrap and plenty of spots with no knots, knots will break !!