I'm going to assume you're going to be matching this to a set you already have, and the present wrap isn't in very good shape anyway.

(IF not, I would suggest you try to find someone who's needing one in the drum's current finish -- NEVER remove and destroy wrap unless there's just no other alternative -- and buy a shell to wrap).

I use a simple paint-removin' heat gun that you can buy just about anywhere... mine is a Wagner, I think, and I bought it for under $25 at a local Walmart. It has too heat settings -- one very hot and one not quite as hot. On a drum of this era, use the cooler setting and be very attentive and careful, because the glue (and wrap and SOMETIMES even the shell will burst into flames. The heat softens the wrap and liquefies the glue so that it all pulls off fairly easily. BUT, I can't stress CAUTION enough -- it's very easy to ignite it just with too much (too hot) heat!

As for the interior, you could try stripping... but one of the reasons Ludwig used a painted interior was with the paint they didn't have to worry about what the inside ply looked like. Notice there was only maybe 2-4 years Ludwig offered that clear interior, as the paint hides almost all imperfections, and their granitone interior hid them all!

When I find myself refurbishing orphans, I usually rewrap the exterior and either paint the interiors with plain white or light tan (Slingerland copy) and sometimes even the "stone" look spray paint, as it kinda mimics Ludwig's granitones. Most of my set are player's kits anyway!

If your going to use a heat gun.. Do it outside. It's not worth the risk of burning your house down. I friend of mine was using one outside. He stopped and went inside for just a minute. When he came out the whole shell had burned up.

Other things that will make this easier:

[LIST]

[*]Insulated gloves, because things get hot

[*]A couple pairs of pliers to grab the wrap and pull as you heat the shell

[*]A helper, because four hands are better than two for this job

[/LIST]

Take your time, because it's very easy to remove part of the wood shell with the wrap. Especially around the wrap overlap areas and the lugs where the wrap was clamped down and the glue cured really well. Depending on the year, the wrap may also be under the wood at the overlap joint too. Just remove the wrap, as close a possible and then cut.

Good luck and take your time.

-Tim

Good point. I always do it in my driveway just outside my garage. When one does catch, I just roll it down the drive and it usually goes out pretty quick (remember the old, "drop and roll?"). I imagine quite a sight for the neighbors, especially when I'm doing several at a time (or more correctly, in a row).

Good points as well. I didn't even think about the scarf joint. On a '64, it's there...

I always remove the wrap outside. I keep a very damp cloth within reach in case that old wrap flames up. Just grab the cloth and put it out. I use a steel paint scraper as I move the heat gun back and forth to help seperate the wrap from the shell. Especially going over the lug holes so you don't burn the wood between the holes.

I not a matter of "if" the old wrap flames up, it's how many times it will flame up. Because it will happen at least once when you use a heat gun. :eek:

-Tim

Soon as the wrap starts to melt, get ready to blow out the candles!

Just keep the gun 8" or so away and keep it moving, be patient. But if the wrap starts melting, then it will ignite very shortly. If it does, I just blow it out right away, never had to throw a towel or roll it down the driveway, was not a big deal to me.

Steam is the way to go for removal