And I forgot to mention, the 1131 Hercules high-hat is a good one also. It has the best features of the 1124: the adjustable spring, spur on the bottom, and steel link. But it is beefier in construction (heavier). And it's a late 1970s - 1980s production item, and you may not want to get that modern. Modern?! - that was 40-50 years ago! Ha!
Enjoy, MB
Hi MB, you’re right about the plastic link issue. The earlier models were all metal including the tension adjustment and the connector link. I did a modification on the one that I use by fabricating a brass linkage which also served to raise the footboard up just a bit which is more to my liking.
Thanks Rhythm44,
Can you post a photo of your fabricated brass link? I've got a high-hat with a broken plastic link that I tried to "jerry rig" with a connector from the hardware store, but it never worked satisfactorily. So the high-hat sits in my storage shed as a source of spare parts.
Regards, MB
I know that this thread is all about someone's opinion of which hi-hat stands he thinks are the best and other people chiming in with their opinions. So, here's my opinion. The only Ludwig hi-hat that I ever liked was one I acquired in the late 1960s while on the road playing a gig in the boonies of Wisconsin. My hi-hat stand--I think a 1950s Slingerland--crapped out on me. A little music store in a small town had a New Ludwig Standard hi-hat pedal at a low enough price that, if it made it through the week, it would be worth the price until I could get a better hi-hat stand. That simple and inexpensive stand gave me many years of reliable service until I acquired a couple of my all-time favorite Hi-hats. The Rogers Swan Leg Hi-hat has been my favorite since it first was introduced. I also like the Slingerland 60's Tempo King or 70's Dynamo. The Slingerland pedals I like are too heavy for me to want to schlep around, and the Swan Leg is feather-light. Even if I liked Ludwig drums, I have never liked any of their hardware except for that Standard hi-hat stand.
Another vote for the Ludwig 1124 although I also have the 1123-1 which works fine too. There are probably "better" vintage ones but the fact that the Ludwig stands are still readily available and still relatively cheap give them the leg up for me.
I do prefer to have the metal link, but so far I haven't had any problems with the plastic link on my 1124. It is very important to hold the brass connector nut with a wrench when you tighten the top rod. If you don't do this you are twisting the plastic link and putting unnecessary stress on it. This probably contributes to a lot of the breakage that occurred with them.
thinshell wrote:
I do prefer to have the metal link, but so far I haven't had any problems with the plastic link on my 1124. It is very important to hold the brass connector nut with a wrench when you tighten the top rod. If you don't do this you are twisting the plastic link and putting unnecessary stress on it. This probably contributes to a lot of the breakage that occurred with them.
EXCELLENT point, thinshell! I hadn't thought of that. Thanks! MB
Hi MB,
Here are a couple shots of my linkage mod. It's a rather rough job because it was drilled freehand. When i'm able to get a proper workshop I'll probably make another, more accurate, one. I made a new stabilizer pin as well. I also had to shave off the tip of the footboard connecting rod and re-groove it so the linkage would be a bit more perpendicular. I love refurbishing this stuff since I'm not playing anymore.
You can fix a broken nylon linkage, or reinforce one before it breaks, on an 1124 (or 1123-1) with a stainless steel hose clamp. Thread it through the pins and around the linkage then tighten it until it's the correct length. The original linkage will act as a spacer while the clamp carries the load. Should just about last forever.
All of these modern high hats are fine but you can't do better than high hat stands that had stood the test of time such as the Slingerland Duncan, Walberg and Auge, and whatever this last one is...
I have an old "skeleton" hi-hat stand that still works well after probably a century of being made. Manufacturer?????
