Hi Everyone,
Been drumming for 38 years now, started in Drum Corps and played snare for a number of years. I have been into vintage Ludwig and Gretsch for awhile now and noticed how helpful this forum could be with all the restoration experience there is out there. I have a few projects under way and hope to here from all you folks who love restoring great drums and letting their wonderful tones to be heard again.
Cheers!
Kelly
[COLOR="DarkRed"]post us some pics, Kelly ![/COLOR]
Hi Jaye and all!
Here are a couple of some vintage snares I've enjoyed restoring.
Early 50's WFL 6.5X14 natural maple, nickel hardware, classic strainer, 1963 (dated stamped, Ludwig Jazzfest. Modern Drums are Craviotto with diamond inlay, solid bird's eye maple and the new Black Beauty...
I'm going to post another thread in restoring VD's. A project I'd like to get working on and hopefully it becomes my favourite kit is a late 50's, early 60's (need your help on this!) round badge Gretsch in 13,16and 20. I've posted pics of the shells.
Here's the thread check it out, http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=6194
band3
[COLOR="DarkRed"]This is gonna seema real stupid Q, kelly...but...can you help me out: what is the deal with connecting those Ludwig Classic Throwoffs to either mylar or string ? How do you do it...with just one tension screw on those ? I have 3 of 'em in my parts box but have yet to get around puzzling that out...properly...OR the way it was intended.
BTW...those snares are awsome....[/COLOR]
Hi Jaye,
Great question on the classic strainer. When restoring the WFL with "Classic Strainer" I didn't feel like shelling out rhe $$ for a pure sound vintage clone which I believe are 1 inch longer to accomodate the length needed to screw directly to the strainer.
Initially, I connected a typical Taiwanese 20 strand snare that has the slots for the mylar straps by putting the screw through the slot in the snare directly to the Classic strainer, then string to the butt. The problem was that on the butt end of the snare there was 2" of wasted snare head due to the disproportionate length of the snare used to reach and attach to Classic. The sound was also terrible, way to wet and there was a lot of buzzz no matter how I adjusted the snare tension. So I thought and thought.....
What if I used mylar and the same snare wire?? So, I doubled over the mylar back over itself so there was a 4X thickness on the Classic strainer side of the snare wire. I drilled a hole directly in the middle of the doubled mylar to allow for the one Classic strainer screw to pass through, set it up that way and it works beautifully! The snare wire is equidistant now from both sides of the bottom rim and the gorgeous old Classic is doing a fine job of tensioning to any tone I want, high dry, fat & wet... I attached a pic so you can see. the other benefit now is the snare beds on this old shell actually have a bearing on the sound and the buzz has been eliminated too. A happy drum now :) The Classic really is a wonderful strainer when attached this way and much easier to adjust than any p-83 or later Ludwig version because of the large (more ergonomic) nickel tensioning wheel.
Kelly
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Voila !Clapping Happy2
Great solution....I will give it a try.
I wonder if a 15" set of snares would have worked in version #1 of your attempt ?
Yes...I just LOVE how the Classic strainer action FEEEEELS...that throwoff is just so dang smooth and uber-cool, too ![/COLOR]
With classic strainer, I think it was a question of economy for 'ol Bill Ludwig.
There is close to three times the metal in the Classic strainer than the p-83 and more "machined" parts. A better strainer than the p-83, not to mention the cool looks as you say Jaye?? What do you think?
What's the best strainer of all time????Keep on Pl
KElly
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Omigosh....I don't answer those sorta questions...I don't like...
Forum Wars Chewie:
[/COLOR]
I[COLOR="Olive"] really do like those Classics, though....I also like the Rogers clockface ones...
I just like well-designed, somewhat ingenious old hardware...how they did things back then to address the issue they needed to address...make the part work the way it needed to....back in the day...
[/COLOR]
Yes, kinda like Rogers Swivo-matic hardware for Ringo instead of the rail consolette?
Don't get me wrong, love the p-83 too!
Kelly
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Perfect example of the fact that folks back then had no qualms about using what worked best on their particular kit.
MOST old vintage shells I get in HAVE obviously had some foreign element attached to them at one time or another....
P-83's are OK...but Classics are..well...just plain...
sexxxxy.:cool:[/COLOR]
