Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 130.46347%

The worst Speed King

Loading...

Also don't assume the bearings are bad. Clean them and see how they feel. They will usually be fine. It's not like they were in a high speed application like a motor.

Posted on 12 years ago
#11
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
Loading...

I just realized my caliper has a mm scale. Duh.

22 OD, 11 ID, +/- 6 depth.

I think it's a non-standard size. I know they can be re-packed and re-used, but jeez, as long as I'm this far.

Ludwig still sells these? That's a nice surprise. Do you have a website or contact for these parts? Do they sell other restoration parts like, oh, the logo bearing caps (which got destroyed on THIS particular job)?

Posted on 12 years ago
#12
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
Loading...

I posted mine , This Shell, before I saw yours.

You're right -- they're likely fine.... once they're cleaned and re-packed, I'll rec-check.

Still, new would be good. Unless Ludwig charges $$$ for them!

Posted on 12 years ago
#13
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
Loading...

Reminds me... anyone have the bearing caps for sale??

Posted on 12 years ago
#14
Loading...

drumsonsale.com. They have just about everything listed with a price.

You can download the spare parts manual off the ludwig site.

Posted on 12 years ago
#15
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
Loading...

try hydraulic fluid

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 12 years ago
#16
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
Loading...

The PB Blaster did the trick. Filled the post from the bottom, put on the cap. Turned it over, filled it from the top. About 40 minutes later, it was loose.

But hydraulic fluid is on my go-to list for the next super gunked pedal - thanks!

The whole project is moving along smoothly... I love working on Speed Kings.

p.s. I've also seen WD-40 referred to is some posts. I don't know if this is true, but I've heard clock repair people can always tell when the owner's first tried DIY. Because the owner always uses WD 40 - and while it's a great penetrating oil, it isn't that great of a lubricant, and it tends to gum up. So the clock parts are always gunked. True? I don't know, but I don't use it for lube - I use grease, silicon, stuff like that.

Posted on 12 years ago
#17
Loading...

the heat gun/torch thing takes 5 minutes.

I also use a rubber tipped blow gun to get the end caps off. Stick it in the spring hole after removing the piston. Zero chance of breaking anything. I do it in a box because they do fly off very quickly...

[IMG]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21w2uJoxLWL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on 12 years ago
#18
Loading...

The bearings are "nice 405-7"

http://www.plccenter.com/Buy/NICE%20SKF/4057

Posted on 12 years ago
#19
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
Loading...

Excellent info re: the heat gun -- on every other Speed King I've done, I used the same air compressor tool, and never had a problem. This one, though, was just to jammed up.

I ordered bearings and caps from Drums On Sale -- I also ordered a piston, to replace the one that separated.

If they actually have the parts, I have it done within a week. Tomorrow I'm going to the hardware store to find bushings, etc. The footboard holes are worn to 1/4 + inch!

Still, it'll be smooth as silk when it's done!

Posted on 12 years ago
#20
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here