Some people like to do a smooth-as-glass finish on their edges for aesthetics, I think. But really, who is going to see them (besides you), and what protection does a bearing edge really need when it's covered most of it's life with PET film?

Not only do I prefer to leave bearing edges au naturel, but I don't sand them glass-smooth either (down to 320-grit). By leaving some "tooth" on the edges, the drum holds it's tuning better, something I learned a long time ago from Joe Montineri. Makes sense too. PET film is slippery enough on it's own.

If you want the grain to "pop" more on the edges and make them look finished, then a single wipe-on coat of shellac will do the trick, and also seal the pores in the process, without making everything too slick.

some folks over on ghostnote use a standard table candle and just rub it on the edge to seal them with the residual wax.

Thanks, jrfond!

I'll keep them bare, than. I think it looks great this way, although looks don't really matter to me if it's about the edges, which nobody will ever see.

I've "only" gone up to 150 grit so far, and I'll see how it works out. Can't wait to hear its sound. Soon...

Can't help but love this place ^^

Thanks. I might try that, or one of the many other methods people use, if I'm not happy with the results :). But I think I'll first try it bare. That's the easiest: I can always apply something if it's necessary. Taking it off would be more work.

I use paraffin, many use bees wax. The idea is that it allows the head to "slide" over the edge making tuning easier. Probably some protection from moisture also.

Not only does it help to lubricate the new plastic heads for tuning, it also acts as a barrier against water during wet head stretching for the calfskin heads of old.

I would steer clear of using plain paraffin candle wax. It is basically a very large hydrocarbon chain (alkane) and can be sticky due to it's low melting point. It has a high friction value in candle form ... which is counterproductive for use on bearing edges. It causes the drum head to actually stick or adhere to the edge in places, muting the drum.

A more appropriate choice would be beeswax or another natural wax. Beeswax is made of Oleate esters and long chain alcohols, which give it a much higher melting point and a very low friction value. Think fatty acids ... sort of.

The vast majority of drummers are not well versed in Chemistry, which is why the candle wax method has survived for all these years.

Aside from the purpose of acting as a moisture barrier in the case of forming a collar on a freshly-tucked calf head, there is really no PRACTICAL reason to add any lubricant/sealant to the bearing edges at all. PET film is slick stuff. Practically nothing sticks to it, which makes the science of coating development more of a black art.

Again, how much moisture is going to encroach the bearing edge area with a waterproof head mounted on it, and a single half-inch vent hole drilled in the side?

I like drums to HOLD the tuning, and for the heads to maintain very intimate contact with the bearing edges. Actual binding of a synthetic head at the bearing edge has never been an issue that I've ever come across. It's not like guitar strings which can hang up in the nut slot or on a bridge saddle and not return to pitch.

i use butcher block paste wax it works well and is good for the wood it comes in satin and is great for inside of clear drums