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Shallow sized Premier?

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Whoa Nelly! Wish I'd caught this sooner... If the wrap is at all salvageable, leave it! If you spend more time researching on this forum, you'll know that the first thing about vintage drums, (particularly regarding value) is to keep things original. Remove an original wrap, and you instantly devalue the drums. Not sure how bad they are, but sticker residue, and marker is easily removed - lots of threads on the topic. I believe that most here would suggest you try to clean them up first, and try the 'Novus' polish treatment. If you've not gotten too far in the peeling process, I'd suggest you reconsider. There are threads here also, on removing wrap - try some searches.

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Barrhaven Drum Guy
Posted on 11 years ago
#21
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I have only taken the wrap off of the 14" tom. I have however drilled out the original air vents to get the badges off so I'm still looking for new ones.

What I wanted to do was re-wrap it in marine pearl (my all time favourite) and have it as my full time kit. I really hate red wine wraps. Would it be worth doing it up just to sell as a 4 piece and buying a new kit then?

Posted on 10 years ago
#22
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If you do not like the finish...sell the drums,and look for a factory WMP kit...

Problem is..Premier did not make too many WMP kits...AFAIK....

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 10 years ago
#23
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I could sell it, biut I am not sure realistically how much I woudl get for it. It is just shells and hardware, no heads whatsoever and obviously now the 14" tom has no wrap. I've been looking to get an Olympic kit here for years to customise myself and that looked like to was gonna cost me me £200-£300.

With new heads and hardware back on. How much would I get for it as as 3 piece? Or what would be the most lucrative way of selling it without damaging it's heritage. I kind of feel like I've already fudged it by taking that wrap off!

Posted on 10 years ago
#24
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From dr_winston

I was in fact thinking it was this kit and snare/. They seem to resemble them the most as they have the same badges and the bass drum has the T mount. I marching snares are 14 x 12" and the Kit is 22 x 14", 12 x 8", 14 x 8" & 16 x 15" with no snare.

That's my kit, from 1973. Feeling a bit emotional now. I'll say this - the wrap, the chrome, the overall presentation of the drums - like a Rolls Royce. Incredible. I own or have owned Rogers, Ludwig, Gretsch - these make them look half - finished, imho. I traded this kit for a Rogers Londoner V that Roberta Flack toured with here in Oz. Two different universes. Both exceptional. I have the Rogers. I would trade a lefty for a B303 in red. Seriously.

Home Of The Trout
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Posted on 10 years ago
#25
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From dr_winston

I could sell it, biut I am not sure realistically how much I woudl get for it. It is just shells and hardware, no heads whatsoever and obviously now the 14" tom has no wrap. I've been looking to get an Olympic kit here for years to customise myself and that looked like to was gonna cost me me £200-£300. With new heads and hardware back on. How much would I get for it as as 3 piece? Or what would be the most lucrative way of selling it without damaging it's heritage. I kind of feel like I've already fudged it by taking that wrap off!

Just saw a few Oly toms on Ebay UK...for around 30-40 Quid each! Cool finish too,,,,

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 10 years ago
#26
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Well, to be honest I think it is all going to come down to the bearing edges. They all have dents in them, I at least hope they true up a bit.

What's the best thing to test if bearing edges are true around the house, kitchen work surface?

Posted on 10 years ago
#27
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From dr_winston

Well, to be honest I think it is all going to come down to the bearing edges. They all have dents in them, I at least hope they true up a bit. What's the best thing to test if bearing edges are true around the house, kitchen work surface?

Firstly, play them and see how they sound and if they tune up okay. There is some tolerance for imperfection.

You can always put a drum face down on a very flat surface. Shine a light in there and see if there are any gaps. With many drums and most vintage drums I have seen there will be gaps. In terms of what is significant and what is not in my opinion brings me back to play them and see how they sound.

Posted on 10 years ago
#28
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From comover

Firstly, play them and see how they sound and if they tune up okay. There is some tolerance for imperfection.You can always put a drum face down on a very flat surface. Shine a light in there and see if there are any gaps. With many drums and most vintage drums I have seen there will be gaps. In terms of what is significant and what is not in my opinion brings me back to play them and see how they sound.

You are of course totally right. I am going to 'true' them on my kitchen counter and then put what I can of it together (probably just the 12") and decide with my ears.

To be honest I am willing to tolerate imperfections and embrace sonic nuances - I can't see me selling them. What I'll probably do is re-wrap them in white marine pearl. I would like to match it as closely to the original 70s WMP of course. But that's a different mission altogether...

Posted on 10 years ago
#29
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I am going to have to buy new hoops for them and I would like to get them as close to the original as possible.

From what I can see in pictures they are black painted wood with a wrap inaly, could anyone confirm this?

If so, what paint would be best to use?

Posted on 10 years ago
#30
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