Hey Rusty, .... er... Ben

Here's the link to the "Cleaning and Restoring" page from the 'Restoration and Help' drop down menu at the top of the VDF page near the main banner (above).

http://www.vintagedrumguide.com/how_to_vintage_snare.html

The bottom of the link's page has a paragraph on rust and there is mention of Whink Rust Remover - I've used it on other metal parts to good effect, but haven't tried it on chrome.

My favorite for chrome, so far, is Brasso, though my chrome is rust free, so I dunno if it's any help that way.

Give the link a read, it's an excellent article.

Crumbled aluminum foil dipped in water. Sound too simple but it work without scratching.

Thanks for the advice friends!

"Remember stay off drugs and stay in school"Mister T

A further thought concerning Whink ~ As I said, I'd only used it on non-chrome parts, to good effect.

Out of curiosity, along with some nuts & bolts, etc. I threw in 2 chrome washers from my Rogers marching bass drum - from the carrying harness eyelets.

I didn't really examine them too carefully before I put 'em in, they just seemed "old" looking. When I pulled 'em out, they were darker & kinda bubbly looking. Afterwards, I hit them with some Brasso to polish them and the chrome was flaking.

While I'm not implying that the Whink caused a problem, I have a theory that the Whink sought out the rust under the chrome, and while attacking it may have caused a separation of the chrome over any hint of rust.

This would have happened eventually, but perhaps the Whink found its way under the chrome through "invisible" cracks - and hastened the process.

All this to say that Whink on rusting chrome parts *may* be problematic.

I'm sticking with Brasso - UNTIL IT BETRAYS ME! Soap Box

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Small parts...lugs, screws inserts, washers, just leave immersed in Dawn dishwashing liquid for 2-3 days, then clean off with an extra-soft toothbrush...[/COLOR]

Chrome polish. Available at auto parts stores.

Forget that one, i tried it yesterday.

Only thing it helped me with was to polish my hoops which WERENT rusted.

I tried to remove rust from my tom legs after first brushing it with sandpaper, but there was no help, rust ate the chrome and all i could do was to atleast move that rust so if someone isnt looking from close to it, cant see it.Excited

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Once it really gets in there it's a problem. Naval Jelly also works, but it creates the same situation as ND described above...it'll effect the chrome plating if left too long...but a lotta times you have to leave it long to get the rust off.

I am gonna try Amos' method one day.

IMHO, fine wool 000 or 0000 on hoops is OK, any scratching is really so small it can't be seen. Also use it on strainers and butts, t-rods, claws, and such.

I wouldn't use SW on a shell, however.[/COLOR]

Hello there.

This is my first post in this forum, but at this point I've been thru almost all hardware restoration on my (not so) old Pearl Export 1997. (sorry for that not being really vintage... :) )

I'm pretty sure there is something similar there (and sorry if this hint was, probably, already shared) but here we have a green liquid called "Metal conditioner" which is a powerful rust remover. Composition translated from portuguese reads something like: "metallic acid phosphats, zinc and chrome salts, glycols, non-ionic surfactating agents, water, complexant agents". Sorry for my lack of chemical background for that in english, but the thing is basically an acid. You have to wear gloves and masks to be able to work with it. If you forget to do that you'll feel ill in a couple of minutes...trust me.

Thing is: if you put a chrome part which is not rusted in it, the liquid does nothing to it. If you have a tiny or a large rusted chromed part, the liquid will act on the rust points, phosphatizing (is that correct?) it. The rusted part then sports a bit darkish/greyish (but not too dark) aspect that, along with the chrome (and supposing the part is not TOO rusted) it's almost imperceptible. Another good thing is that the phosphatized points will NEVER rust back again. On tension rods it does wonders. I have also used it on a Pearl Steel Snare, restored everything to new (had just small pitting). Used it on hoops, lugs and ALL metallic parts such as cymbal machine, drum pedal, everything else.

I either use a brush or immerse the parts on it. Then I take the part off, dry it with a rag and let it dry overnight (NEVER user water after!). After checking the whole thing have evaporated/reacted, I clean the part using good auto polishing wax. I have done this in the whole hardware set as I said, after some research, results are very good. Lemme see if I can put some pictures in here. So, basically, it's just this green liquid stuff, and then auto wax. OH, and PTFE/Teflon oil on the screws when assembling.

Now I am in the point of doing the Tons and Bass tom, and I have a serious doubt now about removing rust from wood which I will write a new post about it, since I could not find it through the search.

I hope that would be of help.

Warm regards from Brazil,

Jeffo.