Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 129.86221%

Rust on chrome Last viewed: 10 seconds ago

Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
Loading...

Awesome, jf_moreira !!!

And, Welcome to the Forum!!

I dig the part about the parts not rusting again.

If that product is available on the internet, could you post a link, please?

Thanks!!

Kevin
Posted on 15 years ago
#11
Loading...

I have another easy method of getting rid of rust......Electrolysis. My neighbor tried it on my 79 Ludwig snare and it worked great.

What you need...............

1. Manual Automotive battery charger

2. Arm & Hammer Washing Soda

3. Plastic container (tote box, storage container)

4. Metal strip (anything will do...mild steel, stainless, alum....)

5. Tablespoon measuring spoon

6. Tap water

This is what i did to take 7 years of paint and some rust off of my nickle plated shell.................

I had used a 12L tote container........

Step 1. Mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda to every 1 liter of water. Mix it together well.

example: I had a 12L plastic tote container that was filled up half way so I only used 6 tablespoons of washing soda.

Step 2. Place your drum piece that you want to clean into the tote. Be sure to have the whole piece under water......note: place off to one side of the tote. If you have more then one piece at a time you have to connect all of the pieces together with a piece of bare wire.......I used welding wire for my lug mounts.

Step 3. Put the piece of metal into the water on the other side of the tote. MAKE SURE that it's NOT touching any of the part/parts that you are cleaning. It's best to clamp the piece of metal to the wall of the tote. Keep in mind that this piece will be coated in rust when your done so make sure it something that you don't want after this is done.

Step 4. Take your automotive battery charger and place the positive clamp onto the piece of metal. Take the negative clamp and put it onto your part. Set the charger to trickle charge/2 amp and plug it in. You need to do this in a well ventilated area since it produces hydrogen oxide gas. Outside is best. Leave the part/parts in for at least 3 hours, it wont harm it if you leave it for more.....I had a car rim in for 24hrs......came out great.

DO NOT TOUCH THE WATER after you have it plugged in, you will get shocked. The shock is not bad at 2 amps but it's enough to make you jump.........just don't touch the water or smoke around the container.

Step 5. After having the part in the soapy water for 3 hrs unplug the charger, disconnect the clamps, take your part out, wipe it down with a wet rag most of the rust should come off at this time......if not, put a little elbow grease into it. Take your part and rinse with a hose or a power washer with plain water, wipe it down with a clean dry rag and your done.

I know it sounds like a lot but it's not a lot of elbow grease.

You will be amazed at the results.

Hope this helps,

Crackerman.

Keeper of time
Posted on 15 years ago
#12
Loading...

I have been using the same Eagle One polish that I use on my truck's wheels. It is a little plastic can with a cream inside it. I just dab a bit on the lugs and stuff with a paper towel, spread it around and then when it hazes I wipe it off with a micro fiber rag. I have been doing this for a couple days now and it is working pretty good. The little bends and cracks, I put a popsicle stick inside the micro fiber and use it like a trowel i guess to get in those little bendy spots if you get my drift. Once I do all this, i hit em with car carnuba wax. Not sure how this will work out long term but it helps alot with the fingerprints for now so I am goin with it.

I bought a couple cloth wheels and some red type polish for my bench grinder but found that those lugs heat up pretty quick and it was an overall pain in the rear. I am stickin with the chrome wheel cream polish. I may still use that grinder for big stuff like the pedals or whatever but the small stuff is all wheel polish.

I used carnuba wax on the shells too and there is a noticeable difference between waxed and unwaxed. Again, I am not sure of the long term effects of using car cleaning stuff but it is poppin now!!

It is way late or I would trek out to the garage and snap a pic of the stuff I use for the chrome.

happy tennis elbow!!

drumhack

"If it doesn't matter who wins or loses then why the hell do they keep score Peg? - Al Bundy
Posted on 15 years ago
#13
Loading...

My two cents...I recently acquired a Ludwig flat base snare stand with a drum I purchased on ebay. Parts of it had a lot of surface rust. Being a car guy I went to the garage to get the chrome polish that has worked extremely well on my cars. Mother's Chrome Polish is amazing! In addition to removing junk that other means don't, it almost seems to "deepen" the chrome. Most of the rust came off easily, however, for the worst spots I did use steel wool. I know that it is not recommended, but if you are only dealing with surface rust and carefully use the finest grade (0000) it does not dull the chrome...again, old car chrome experience.

The chrome on the 1961 snare came out beautiful, like new. I'm amazed at the quality of chrome they used on these old drums! Car manufacturers should do so well!

Gary G.
1963 Ludwig Gold Sparkle Hollywood Kit
Ludwig Collection: 10 Vintage Snare Drums, 4 Customized Vintage Snare Drums, 4 Vintage Foot Pedals, 1 Single Value Bugle
Posted on 15 years ago
#14
Loading...

From NewDecade

A further thought concerning Whink ~ As I said, I'd only used it on non-chrome parts, to good effect. Out of curiosity, along with some nuts & bolts, etc. I threw in 2 chrome washers from my Rogers marching bass drum - from the carrying harness eyelets. I didn't really examine them too carefully before I put 'em in, they just seemed "old" looking. When I pulled 'em out, they were darker & kinda bubbly looking. Afterwards, I hit them with some Brasso to polish them and the chrome was flaking. While I'm not implying that the Whink caused a problem, I have a theory that the Whink sought out the rust under the chrome, and while attacking it may have caused a separation of the chrome over any hint of rust. This would have happened eventually, but perhaps the Whink found its way under the chrome through "invisible" cracks - and hastened the process.All this to say that Whink on rusting chrome parts *may* be problematic.I'm sticking with Brasso - UNTIL IT BETRAYS ME! Soap Box

I recently pulled an early Pearl set off the curb which is in pretty rough shaped as far as rust goes. Once again not saying Whink is the best route but i tried it on tension rods simply dipping the toothbrush i was using in the product then scrubbing and rinsing i got similar results to the guy with the green stuff. I probably wouldn't suggest soaking chrome in it though, anyway hope this helps

Posted on 15 years ago
#15
Loading...

From MrNemo1999

Hey guys after taking my old pearl drums out of the basement into the light I've noticed alot of rust on the chrome hoops. I have heard not to use steel wood as it will scratch and leave the chrome cloudy looking. Can anybody of any products to remove rust or methods they have used? ThanksBen

there is a spray product called P B BLASTER i use for hvac work and it works like magic!

Posted on 15 years ago
#16
Loading...

dudes right pb blaster is the sh*t!!!!guitar3

Posted on 15 years ago
#17
Loading...

From kevins

Awesome, jf_moreira !!!And, Welcome to the Forum!!I dig the part about the parts not rusting again.If that product is available on the internet, could you post a link, please?Thanks!!

Ouch...I probably forgot to set email notification on this...sorry for replying a year later... DOH

Here's one link for the product, brazilian store...just to check the appearance (green liquid)

http://www.lojadomecanico.com.br/produto.asp?cod=3466&cat=32&subcat=250

[IMG]http://www.lojadomecanico.com.br/imagens/removedor.jpg[/IMG]

I am sure that is easy to find in USA...

Prefer the less dense liquid if you find it there...

My restored Pearl is one year on the road and doing just fine after the "Acid-Autowax" approach.

Cheers,

Jeffo.

1997 not-quite-vintage fully restored Pearl EX in Red Wine Finish
1965 Slingerland Deluxe Student Model Snare in Red Sparkle Finish. Now that's some vintage...
Posted on 14 years ago
#18
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
Loading...

From jf_moreira

Ouch...I probably forgot to set email notification on this...sorry for replying a year later... DOHCheersJeffo.

Let's see 11and a half months at 6oz. per month.........

You now owe me 2 quarts plus 5 ounces of elbow grease ! .....Cool1

Kev

Kevin
Posted on 14 years ago
#19
Loading...

From kevins

Let's see 11and a half months at 6oz. per month.........You now owe me 2 quarts plus 5 ounces of elbow grease ! .....Cool1Kev

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! (that's LOL in portuguese...)

Sorry man... :D

Hope you can find (and eventually name it so I can know) the product around there. I've been using that thing to get rid of rust and restore almost anything that has iron and is in bad condition! That includes a 1966 Singer Sewing Machine that I found on the street some weeks ago, hehehehehehehe.. :))))

Jeffo.

1997 not-quite-vintage fully restored Pearl EX in Red Wine Finish
1965 Slingerland Deluxe Student Model Snare in Red Sparkle Finish. Now that's some vintage...
Posted on 14 years ago
#20
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here