Take two playing cards and tape them to the inside and outside of the shell (flush/tight to the sides) and level with the bearing edge. It's just like making a mold for concrete. Pour the thickest Weld-On you can find into the card mold until it is level with the bearing edge. Allow to dry at least 24 hours before removing the cards.

You might want to mix a little bit of (transparent) green oil paint in with the weld-on to try to match the color of the patch to the rest of the shell, but it's not necessary in this case because it'll all be hidden by the heads and hoops.

Use fine sand paper 200/220 grit to make the patch match the surrounding bearing edge shape. Careful to keep the patch dead level with the bearing edge on either side of it. You can gently sand it to match the shape of the rest of the edge.

John

Wayne, I'm curious to know how you were able to insert the photos in the post like you did! Any chance you can walk me through that??

Sorry, I dont know how to fix the drum... but Purdie knows alot of things about a lot of things! The knowledge is vast in that one!

I don't think the way that John said to do it will work on the shell's edge..One question is the chip is that on the playing side of the drum? Or front side.If it's on front side i may work but the crack seam this type of seam you have on the drum looks to be the first one Ludwig made flat on both side's Ludwig change the seam's to a "V" shape so they could used more glue to hold the seam's together because of the problems with the flat sided seam's...So used alot of glue on the seam so it will not come apart.....Mikey

> I don't think the way that John said to do it will work on the shell's edge..

And why is that? Mind sharing what you think is wrong with it? Better yet, if you have a 'better way' of doing the job to fix the edge, how about sharing it?

John

:confused:

What difference will it make if it's the rear or leading edge of the shell??..

Cheers

On the rear side playing side on the bottom of the shell with the crack and chip like that,you will have all the pressure of the pedal on the hoop the beater hittting the head most likely the crack/chip repair to the edge will not hold and the drum may crack again at the seam,also the chip repair may full out the shell....Mikey

The chip is a big chip if it was smaller then Yes the way you said would work i have done re-pair;s to small chips in the pass.But also the way its chipped and the way the crack is their is no good way to fix it.I have tryed in th pass to fix chip's this big and the repair has alway's did not hold...I don't know what better way their is to fix the chip.I would just replace the shell with a used one or but a new shell from RCI shell's.....Mikey

I think it's worth trying to fix it. I'd do the seam first. Let it sit a couple days and then do the chip. Save the drum if at all possible. If you don't want to I'd like to give it a try. Let me know if you want to work out a deal.

Ups has not delivered the drum to me ya,

I am quite sure it is on the front of the drum

Not the batter side

I will go head and use weld on to fix the seam first

The use playing cards to form a mold on the front edge where there

Is a piece missing...

Thanks for all your help and I will post photos of my progress....

I only spent $25 plus shipping for this bass drum

So I won't lose much

If I need further help I will be more than happy to consult the experts here!

Another option may be letting gary at precision drum company

Cut the edge down and re do the Bering edge?

Any thoughts on this?