Im doing the same thing as we speak. I have found that lac thinner will cut it but you really have to soak it down and have a million towels.

Another member swears that exylene will take it off real easy, I need to try it myself.

Jeff C

Will try the Xylene when I can find a small can of the stuff.

I could only find a gallon and I don't want that much sitting around.

I tried some Formby's with a green Scotchbrite pad and the glue does ball-up

and roll off with enough elbow grease. Also noticed some patches would ball-up and roll off just with my fingers.

I did try my little orbital palm sander with 200 grit and it cleaned-up

pretty well removing a minimum of wood.

I was also thinking of leaving the shells sitting outside when the temperature

drops below freezing and sanding them while the glue is frozen.

I can't imaging how this would hurt the shells but I'll start with the 12" tom first.

I'll let you know how well this works.

Mark

Mark its funny how we think alike. I was going to buy some exylene on Sunday and all they had was a gallon so I passed.

I think whatever you do you will end up with sticky balled up goop thats hard to wipe off your putty knife or whatever you are using. I usually end up filling my spray gun with lac thinner and using it to keep the shell wet. After a few minutes you can start to scrape the glue off but its sticky and messy. I tried to sand it off but had no luck with that at all, just gummed up the paper. I dont think there is a easy way to do this. I do still want to try the exylene.

Jeff C

Exylene can be bought in quarts or half gallon tin cans from a roofing distributor under rubber roofing seam cleaners !!

JC, the glue is probably exylene based as to not crystalize like the roofing products used to repair in the rain and remain flexable. Like water stop in a tube !!

You might get it at Lowes or Home Depot in the roofing section under John Mansfield !!

Im Okay with a gallon if it works, was just going to try it out first.

I tried another experiment last night.

I heated the glue film with my heat gun until the surface of the shell was mildly hot to the touch, then I immediately took a length of duct tape and applied it to the heated area

and pressed it on the shell firmly. Then slowly peeled it off to pull the softened glue film with it. It worked on some areas pretty well. Not sure if there is an optimum heat to use for this technique. I think a tape with an even stickier backing would work better.

Mark

If your talking about that very thin film of glue that is left after you get the majority of it off, WD40 actually worked for me on a old 64 Slingerland tom.

This was after Citristrip and denatured alcohol.

That might be use number six billion for Duct tape!

What would we do without this stuff?Hmmmm

Home Depot sells the 'real' duct tape (to actually seal ducts with) that is VERY strong (I'd say kidnapper grade for sure) and also VERY sticky- stick it to itself glue to glue and you might as well throw it out and start over because its NEVER coming apart.

You have to look in the back where the duct parts are to find it, and it's not cheap, but all I buy now because it's worth the extra couple bucks.