[COLOR="DarkRed"]Since I have now taken to restoring horns as well - here's my suggestion if you really, really, really wanna get it right:

Take it to a repair shop/tech that fixes saxes or brass instruments. They have all of these amazing dent removers and it shouldn't cost you more than $25.

I would then also "back" the throw area with a metal plate so the bend doesn't happen again (something removable...just a plate drilled with holes for the screws.

:o[/COLOR]

kjklives2ride...

I have done this work on MANY COB Dynasonics, as well as Slingerland and Ludwig drums that feature the oh so soft COB shell. That said, and with no disrespect intended towards Jaye...

Don't "back" the throw/strainer area after the job is done as there is no need to do that! The key is... ( and you were correct ) ... DO NOT over tension the snares/snare frame on these COB shelled drums. The shell won't buckle in again IF the snares are tensioned correctly, and on a COB Dynasonic, that means the snare frame should move back and forth "easily" while under tension from the strainer. The Rogers Dynasonic is a unique animal in the snare drum world and as such demands a bit more care to set up properly. Most guys don't take the time to do so and end up WAY over tightening the snare frame on these drums which always leads to a dented/concave shell right behind the strainer. My set up guide will get your drum in a nice area... fine tune to taste after that!

Tommyp

tommyp..Jaye suggests going to a music shop to fix..do you also agree with that or can this minor work be done at home with a little finase..

I really don't want to screw it up but i am pretty mechanical

If you can't do it yourself, or find a music shop that doe repairs, you could check for a company called "dent wizards"...they roll out dents in cars and you cannot see them afterwards.

Well... I have never used a music store/repair facility to do this work, and I have taken out some BAD dents let me tell ya! However... and it's a BIG however... it's really going to depend on what you feel you can do, and you do mention that you have some "mechanical apptitude"... always a plus of course! So...

I shy away from describing the actual method/methods on a public forum as I wouldn't want anyone wrecking their drums, but that said, email me, and I'll give you the skinny, and you can decide from there. Truthfully, it's not that hard to do, but the right tool is of paramount importance here, and that old tried, true, and well known adage will also deliver dividends: "Patience is a virtue"... :-D

Tommyp

[COLOR="DarkRed"]l agree Tommy, that the issue of the backing plate is easily avoided by just tensioning correctly - but (now granted l have only done this with Powertone and Slingy shells - very successfully l might add) Once the metal gets crimped\bent it becomes a point of weakness - so the plate just reinforces that area As l said - it should be removable - and need not be very heavy. No need if you tend to tune your snare medium tension. But it seems nowadays folks really like cranking the hell outta their metal snares. [/COLOR][COLOR="Purple"]Regardng do-it-yourself Hmmmm l dunno - if it were a $60 1970's COS sumthin'-or-other... sure give 'er a go. BUT this is a vintage Dynasonic, y'know ? 10 mins at a horn tech to get 'er purrrrfect is a worthwhile investment, lMHO.[/COLOR]

I took a bad dent out of a COB Powertone. I went to the hardware store and found a good quality silicon small head mallet. Then I supported the shell in a padded cradle arrangement and very carefully started tapping from the outside in. After all this preparation I was rather relieved at how easily the dent just popped back. But this was a typical ding where the drum had been dropped. If it was a small ding or a crimp, I'd be tempted to use a horn shop. The main thing is to just be very gentle, imo. Metal does have a memory though, so it seems like it wants to return to the formed shape. YMMV.

I worked out the dents in a COB Sound King. I am a total novice but pretty handy with tools. I cut a piece of 1" poplar dowel and used that as a dolly to work out the dents... mostly dimples. It came out really nice and I felt real good about the work.

Get the 411 on a technique from tommyp and give it a go. Make it YOUR drum. ;)

Dyna...mmm nice, I gotta get me one them babies!!

And there you have it! The membership has checked in, and with all good advice/technique on dent removal! I want to mention this again though:

We are talking specifically about a Rogers COB Dynasonic here... the snare frame DOES NOT need to be tightened to the point of buckling the shell... that's not how the design works. It did sound to me that it was over tensioning that caused the dent in kjklives2ride's drum, and not a small little dent/ding... meaning ... he should have no problem by following what you guys have laid out here!

I understand the idea behind the "backing plate", but again, not needed... at least not on a COB Dynasonic as the snare frame won't, not does it need to be, over tensioned... right?! I have yet to see a dent return in a COB Dynasonic that I have repaired as once the drum is set up properly, the customer/drummer is amazed at just how much the snares "float" with this design. I would imagine that one could indeed incur another dent on a different brand/model drum by over tensioning the snares again... and I have no doubt that it does happen! Shouldn't be a concern on a COB Dynasonic though, especially after the drum is set up correctly. :-D

Tommyp