Hello,AndWelcome to this great forum..As far your questions Maxitone is a set made by pearl,your set is from about 1970-74...Now for the rims any inport ones will work[they may not match the ones you have]...Parts you are missing i have --The snare strainer arm and knob..The bass drum spurs mounts should have one hole about 1/2" round on side of shell i have these also...Heads just about any heads will sound ok,if i was you i would re-cut the edges on all the drums to get a better sound from them....Mikey

Thanks for getting back so quick! :D The spur mounts are still there. I guess I just need the spurs then? For the snare, I have the knob, just need the lever. I also forgot to mention that I need 18 tension rods for the missing hoops too, unless again, they are standard enough that I can buy something new. Sorry, I know nothing about these. This is actually my first "analogue" kit. Up until now I have been playing on my Yamaha electronic set.

Oh.

And is there something that needs to go on the back of the kick drum for support, like on the rim, or just the two spurs? Some of the other kits Ive seen on here have something like that.

How much for the parts you have?

Thanks again!

That is a cool set! Looks like the floor tom is a 14 inch, is that right? Is the bass drum a 20 inch? The badge looks quite a bit like the Majestic Deluxe badge. Not sure if it was Pearl or Star that made those.

I actually like the wrap on your drums. Have you tried to clean them up at all or are they really that dull? They just look a little dusty in the pics. These look kind of like a set I finished restoring recently, http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=10531

For your parts situation, I'm sure Mikey probably has most of what you need. It might be hard to find just the lever of your snare throw, you may have to get a whole unit, which wouldn't be impossible, or too expensive. Hoops: Cannon and Gibraltar make new hoops, but used ones shouldn't be too hard to source, either here or on ebay.

As for heads, everyone has there own preferences, but I definitely think coated heads work best on these types of drums. Remo Ambassadors on both sides work really well for an open sound (which is great especially if you've got working mufflers) or Emperors for a little more of a mellow, controlled sound (good if you have some unsavory overtones.) I dont mean to sound like a Remo commercial, but their heads tend to be easy to find and can be had online for pretty cheap if you buy them by the pack.

The t-rod inserts on your set may be metric, so check those before buying rods. If they are metric inserts, you can swap them out for standard sizes, no problem. You can find metric rods, but it may not be easy. Again, Mikey might have some.

And the things on the bass drum hoops are called anchors. They are helpful if you have a problem with the bass drum creeping away from you as you play. I like to use them.

Good luck with the project. Please keep us updated and POST MORE PICS!!!

I love those old MIJ stencil kits! just put some good remo emperor heads on them and they will sound great. Sound Percussion sells floor tom legs at Guitar Center stores or online. SP has lots of drum parts at reasonable prices. they are not necessarily the original parts that came on your drums, but they are reasonable replacements of decent quality. I always replace those old style bass drum spurs with the more modern Gibraltar type legs that telescope for versatile adjustment and placement. They look way better too. You may be taking on a bit too much with a cherry wood veneer. You'll have to steam that veneer to bend in a perfect circle. there are many easier wrap products out there. or get creative with paints and texture. Muffle that bass drum with the white felt strips they sell at music stores for just this purpose. Leave out the damn pillow, just muff it properly. experiment with the felt position. use thinner, single ply heads like remo ambassador or aquarian classic clear for resonant (non playing) sides. I had a Majestic and my pal had a Maxitone. they were identical except for color. mine was red sparkle, Stoney's was blue. circa 1972-73.

Nah, the veneer is super thin, and it will go right on. The veneer he probably is looking at is 1/42", so it is more like a paper thin wood. I am going to do a kit in it very soon. I already have the veneer, and it is super easy to go on. Just dont try to cut or drill it until you have a couple of coats of lacquer or poly on them as the wood will splinter all to hell if you don't get it pretty well coated. The veneer is pretty cheap these days, and I can assure you it will be relatively easy to put on, if you know what you are doing, or atleast can follow good direction like at www.joewoodworker.com

Let's see it before you start putting the wood on.

Can you also make such a close-up pic of a lug of the bass drum, please?

I like to compare that with the original lugs at my old single Star bass drum.

Thanks,

Ralf

'... tension rods, etc seem to be cleaning up nicely after soaking in coke and being wiped with a wet rag and barkeepers friend ...'

Never tried that out.

Coke contains Phosphoric acid and I'm afraid that this acid attacks the chrome surface when leaving the parts too long in it.

How long shall I put the screws etc. into the coke? 1 min.? 10 min.? Or just a short dipping?

Ralf

I discourage this method. I know it might be a quick and easy fix, but it is still a short-cut none-the-less. If you have a screw bun, use it with mineral oil, or any type of light machine oil, such as sewing machine oil (same thing). I use steel woll and do it by hand, this way you see the progress, and have only one step, as you can get them clean and lubed all at the same time, and you don't have to worry about getting all of the sticky goo off of them, or...you know, it's just not really a great way to do it IMHO. Sorry if I hurt anyones feelings, but steel wool, mineral oil and a screw gun gets it done in one, and you can see anything that may be an issue right up front. Sorry.