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Guidance with restoration on Leedy Slingerland snare?

Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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Re-wrap? Well, I guess that explains some things...including very little fading. It is a little darker under the lugs. I thought it would be the other way around.. but I ain't no expert.

But if you were doing a pro-level re-wrap, why cut the grommet on the outside? Maybe that's the best way, but it seems odd that it wouldn't have been done from the inside. So...not arguing about the re-wrap but I don't et that part.

When I was looking at this snare on ebay, quite a thread developed on its various parts and authenticity, etc. I'll have to do a search and re-read. I recall the seller being pretty clear on originality, etc.

but I don't recall it exactly. Collector value isn't my driving wheel on this drum -- I just think it's cool!

Thanks for all the help...and as to practicing patience...oh, boy, sort of a problem with me!

Posted on 12 years ago
#11
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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I did find the thread, but there is no discussion as to a re-wrap.

The wrap did polish beautifully with Novus polish.

Posted on 12 years ago
#12
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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Salad bowl oil seems not to be readily available... but teak oil is.

Huge difference?? I'm still into the vintage sounds...

Posted on 12 years ago
#13
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I believe "salad bowl oil" is Mineral oil.

Not sure I'd go this route. Mineral oil is tacky and, from my experience, never really cures like tung or linseed oil does. I would suggest trying to do a couple samples on similar wood to see what happens before oiling her up.

Posted on 12 years ago
#14
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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Hmmm...

My impression is that linseed oil is less of a 'finish' than tung oil. Something that would help the wood a bit, without making it less porous.

I don't know if that is accurate woodworking terminology!

Thanks....

Posted on 12 years ago
#15
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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I used "Howards Feed N Wax" on the interiors of my RK kit. It's a cleaner and conditioner. I did them almost 2 months to the day and still looks great. Not oily once dry just a nice satin type finish is left. Home Depot sells it for $10 a bottle. Was a tip from a fourm member I picked up on. My shells were very dry too and this did a nice job.

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Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#16
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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These all sound like great choices....but I ended up using mineral oit, labelled as "lubricant/laxative."

So, ya' know, dual purpose means saving money.

I also happened to be what's readily available, and sounds benign for sure.

I'm going to refer back to the original posting about this drum for opinions about whether there was a re-wrap. One of our guys says it is...and I am not enough of an expert to know. But it is yellowish UNDER the lugs, and a cleaner white under the rims. It isn't crucial, because I intend to keep it. But you never know when the $$ issues will surface.

As always, I appreciate the input and expertise.

Many thanks!!

Posted on 12 years ago
#17
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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Here's the link to my original questions:

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=32212

and a link to the original ebay listing

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320966678766#ht_720wt_1181

Any opinions as to whether this is a re-wrap? Yellowed under the lug casings, and a lighter white under the hoops. Not challenging the earlier post... but the are a LOT of experts here!

Thanks!

Posted on 12 years ago
#18
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Sounds good and I learned some new things to try too. Post some pics when you can~!

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#19
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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Will do -- it is cleaning up nicely and is a really beautiful drum, with super classic 'feel.' This was SUCH a great deal....

Yes Sir

Posted on 12 years ago
#20
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