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Bass drum riser questions

Posts: 2713 Threads: 555
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Has anyone here used the Gibraltar bass drum riser?

https://www.vintagedrum.com/item/Gibraltar-Bass-Drum-Riser-Platform-SCBDPM-PA749BDPM/

I'm thinking about buying a riser for my 18" Gretsch but I want to make sure the riser I go with will fit my pedal(s) comfortably. Right now when I play my beater strikes the drum above mid-head a few inches so I'm thinking the 2" this riser will give will do the trick...........theoretically.

Are there any disadvantages with using this riser compared to the more expensive ones out there?

Gary

Posted on 7 years ago
#1
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I use this riser on my premier 18 bass drum and 20 " MIJ bass drums with danmar clip on spurs. It works great to center the beater.

Posted on 7 years ago
#2
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I use a Mapex riser on my 18" bass drum. Costs only 20 bucks but ran into 2 issues.

First issue: Even though the riser is adjustable for the distance of the pedal from the bass drum which is a nice feature, I was not able to get my pedal quite as close to the head as without the riser. This is with a newer Pearl pedal and I have not tried a different pedal so it may not be an issue for others. I also like to have my pedal as close to the head as I can.

Second issue: Where the chain connects to edge of the footboard of the pedal was just barely touching the wood hoop of my bass drum so I used a wood file to shave the hoop slightly to not make contact. Luckily this is a cheap mapex kit and not a vintage kit but still I was still not excited about doing that. I could have positioned the pedal back a little but the pedal was already a little further from the head than I like.

http://mapexdrums.com/international/products/accessories/sound-control/ac909/

Posted on 7 years ago
#3
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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I have this on my 18" RC kick.

With the old DW5000 pedal I use on that kit, I had to S-bend the beater to keep the rod parallel with the head. Otherwise it has to be pressed much further to make contact with the had and has a strange feel that way.

I think I bent it forward about 3/4 inch but it was so long ago I could be wrong about the dimension.

On the RC kick I use the standard spurs all the way out and it works fine. Some kicks require longer spurs (or other solutions) as they don't go long enough and you end up "nose down" on the kick which is not cool to keep the beater shaft parallel to the head at contact.

EDIT> After reading above the chain is REALLY close for me too. But I was not inclined to file my black lacquered hoop... I did put a small piece of felt there and also under the clamps so it doesn't kill the hoop too badly.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 7 years ago
#4
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Having used both, I prefer the Dixson Lift. Doesn't clamp to your hoop so you don't get wear marks, and it's faster to set up, too. Lighter, also.

As with all lifts, though, your beater will be further away from the head to avoid chain/strap scrapes against the hoop. I found getting used to the adjustment in feel to be worth it for the sound improvement, but YMMV.

12/14/20 Mahogany INDe Bop Cocktail Hybrid

Late 50s Black Nitron 3 Ply Gretsch 13/16/20 w/ Max Roach Snare
Posted on 7 years ago
#5
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Gene D'Amico makes a bass drum cradle for 16" to 22" drums. His stuff is always first rate.

http://www.damicodrums.com/new_cradle.htm

1 attachments


1971 Ludwig Rock Duo set in Blue Oyster Pearl
early Mapex dual bass drum Saturn kit
1964 Leedy Ray  Mosca kit in Blue Sparkle
1959 Slingerland Super Gene Krupa snare in WMP
1968 Slingerland Hollywood Ace Snare Drum
1969 and 1977 Ludwig 400 Supraphonic snares
1965 Acrolite snare
Ludwig Coliseum snare
'68 Rogers Dynasonic snare
Pearl free floating piccolo snare
13" Mapex piccolo snare
6.5" deep Mapex steel snare
Mapex 6.5" Brass snare
I know there's more snares than that.
UFIP cymbals / Avedis Zildjians
Ghost pedals or Tama King Beats
you kids get off my lawn

 

Posted on 7 years ago
#6
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From Kona

Has anyone here used the Gibraltar bass drum riser?https://www.vintagedrum.com/item/Gibraltar-Bass-Drum-Riser-Platform-SCBDPM-PA749BDPM/ I'm thinking about buying a riser for my 18" Gretsch but I want to make sure the riser I go with will fit my pedal(s) comfortably. Right now when I play my beater strikes the drum above mid-head a few inches so I'm thinking the 2" this riser will give will do the trick...........theoretically.Are there any disadvantages with using this riser compared to the more expensive ones out there?Gary

Gary,

That's the exact riser I use for my 18" Rogers Bassdrum..

Depending on the pedal you use..I duct tape the base area where my pedal Grips onto the riser .otherwise it loosens & slids back n forth..

As for height...yes, it's good & adjustable by about an inch..

I do find that I have to change my beater...because I now need alil more travel ..

Kelly.

Bop iT / Til U Drop iT.

ROGER's
1964 Cleveland,.18/14/12 in WMP
1966 Cleveland, 20/14/12 O'natural.
Fullerton,...20/16/13/12 Silver Glass

WFL
1957 B/R Super Classics In WMP

Snares..
Wood & COB Powertones,
Wood & COB Dynasonics,
57 Jazz Festival

Zildjian avedis cymbals.
40s/60s era.
Posted on 7 years ago
#7
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I'm using one on my Breakbeats, it's about 1/2" taller than the stock Ludwig, which I need due to my putting the beater as high as possible My pedal is an older DW 5000 single-chain & I don't have any problems with hoop/chain interference.

The fix I've read about for the interference is to get some fender washers (any hardware store) & put them between the BD clamp & the lower part so that sticks out further.

I had some slippage on the pedal clamp, but I put skateboard tape on it (the riser) & it works well.

The main problem I have with the Gibraltar lift is that the set screws loosen up easily, I'm always reaching down to tighten them. The indentations look like they would take an Allen wrench, but they don't, I've tried both SAE & metric. The one time I used pliers to tighten them down the angle on it changed so much that the baseplate on my pedal was off the ground. I know Loc-tite makes a formula that I can put on the threads & it'll make them harder to turn but I haven't tried it yet.

Posted on 7 years ago
#8
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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Strange re the Allen head... why not just get metric bolts to replace what's there? Then you can have a hex head or whatever you want.

I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be metric, so metric thread. Probably M6 if I had to guess.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 7 years ago
#9
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Strange re the Allen head... why not just get metric bolts to replace what's there? Then you can have a hex head or whatever you want. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be metric, so metric thread. Probably M6 if I had to guess.

The problem is that the set screw has a hole tapped into the other end for the screws that hold the clamp on, not something you can pick up at Ace Hardware.

http://static.music123.com/derivates/18/001/229/528/DV016_Jpg_Large_446346_front.jpg

You can see the pads (I think it's an early model, they look different), they came loose on mine & they're not easy to tighten.

Posted on 7 years ago
#10
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