Nice those are really sharp looking~! Is that tom wrap mellowed yellow or is it more of a cream color? Looks like it has a tanish hue but might be my monitor color setting. ;) Can't wait to see finished pics.
50's Round Badge Gretsch
Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.

It has a slight fade. A little lighter under the lugs. I made the pics on my iPad outside. I will pass on the info about that snare to Brian. He is really excited to have that kit. Thanks John. The seam on the bass did not hold. We were using the 3m glue that most use on wraps. Was gummy. We just pulled it off ," the glue" and going to try again. No harm, no foul, thank goodness. the Tom seam held fine. We are open to suggestions please. Just being very careful.
One cavil... that's not a pre-curser... that is the Max Roach model. The first iteration had tub lugs because Gretsch hadn't yet produced the dies for a smaller lug. However, there's a functional problem with the early 3-ply 4x14. The placement of the Microsensitive throw doesn't allow for complete disengagement of the wires in the off position without readjusting the tension knob. Gretsch corrected the problem later in the 6-ply model by raising the throw's position.see pics below; Nitron 3-ply; detail of later 6-ply versionRon
Thanks for the info Ron.
It has a slight fade. A little lighter under the lugs. I made the pics on my iPad outside. I will pass on the info about that snare to Brian. He is really excited to have that kit. Thanks John. The seam on the bass did not hold. We were using the 3m glue that most use on wraps. Was gummy. We just pulled it off ," the glue" and going to try again. No harm, no foul, thank goodness. the Tom seam held fine. We are open to suggestions please. Just being very careful.
Wow!
That sucks.
Did it not stick to the overlap?
Did it stick to the wood?
Or did it not stick at all?
I'm just curious because I am getting ready to attempt a seam repair myself. :D
Vibes - with contact cement it's important to let it get tack-dry -before- sticking it together. If the glue is wet when clamped, it will do what you experienced, it will stay gooey. Apply the cement to both sides, shell and wrap, place a dowel into the seam to keep it open while the glue cures. When the contact cement feels dry, or very slightly tacky, (almost dry,) remove the dowel, press down the wrap with a countertop rubber-roller, clamp and then wait 24 hours before removing the clamp.
It'll work, the re-glue job will last 20 years. It just has to be -dry- before pressing together. Hope this helps... read the directions on the can!
John
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