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Slingerland project

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Thanks again everyone. The drums are coming along nice, waiting for grommets to show up in the mail. All the hardware has been polished and installed.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 8 years ago
#141
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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From jccabinets

No, cant say that I have. Can you take the bass drum to a paint store and have them try and make some?

Just wondering if I should first stain the timber first & then clear lacquer..

(obviously starting with a sample of the wood veneer)... the colour is Tama's "Emerald Green"... I need to do a 12" & a 16" to match and both have laminate wrap at present...

Cheers

John

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'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 8 years ago
#142
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Very classy "Scandinavian" style finish. Reminds me of an early Yamaha Recording Custom I saw in Jack's Drum Shop years ago in Boston. Also finished inside and out.

Posted on 8 years ago
#143
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From longjohn

Just wondering if I should first stain the timber first & then clear lacquer..(obviously starting with a sample of the wood veneer)... the colour is Tama's "Emerald Green"... I need to do a 12" & a 16" to match and both have laminate wrap at present...CheersJohn

Well, you should always stain first in my opinion. Conditioning the wood before staining is a good idea, that will make the colored stain look more uniform. For my projects I use a clear stain base (has no pigment in it yet) from ML Campbell who also makes the stain and finish that I use. I condition woods like cherry, birch and maple. Woods like oak take the satin just fine without it. There are "conditioners" out there that work but I like to use products from the same manufacture.

That is a very rich green. To achieve dark consistent colors like that I would condition (if its maple) then stain, then use a shading additive which I get from my supplier to tint the clear finish. This is a special additive, I am not mixing stain into the finish as I have learned that that is a no no. Your best bet is to go to a paint store (not a big box store) and see if they can set you up with the products you need. Good luck to you and please dont hesitate to ask questions, I will share what I know.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 8 years ago
#144
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From teverson-sr

Very classy "Scandinavian" style finish. Reminds me of an early Yamaha Recording Custom I saw in Jack's Drum Shop years ago in Boston. Also finished inside and out.

Ya thanks Tom, I really like the satin, cant wait to get these up and ready to play.

Here is a bad photo, my camera is old and need batteries for a flash.

1 attachments

Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 8 years ago
#145
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My strainer is missing the metal bar that clamps the cords. Those holes are 1 5/16 on center. Anyone have one the could sell?

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Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 8 years ago
#146
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From jccabinets

My strainer is missing the metal bar that clamps the cords. Those holes are 1 5/16 on center. Anyone have one the could sell?

Jeeze Jeff those are freaking NICE!!! BEAUTIFUL WORK! That said ... you don't "need" the clamping bar for the snare cord. Slingerland didn't always tap those either, truth be told. Just thread and tie with a square knot. That's how my 1969/70 Slingerland 4X14 Buddy Rich with Zoomatic is set up. It's flawless in it's operation. No slip! Here's a pic ...

Tommyp

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Posted on 8 years ago
#147
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From Tommyp

Jeeze Jeff those are freaking NICE!!! BEAUTIFUL WORK! That said ... you don't "need" the clamping bar for the snare cord. Slingerland didn't always tap those either, truth be told. Just thread and tie with a square knot. That's how my 1969/70 Slingerland 4X14 Buddy Rich with Zoomatic is set up. It's flawless in it's operation. No slip! Here's a pic ...Tommyp

Thanks Tommy, always great getting compliments from you. And thanks for solving my strainer problem, gee that was easy. Now just need two 16" cos stick saver hoops and three floor tom leg mounts and we are done. I have the push button ones but they are not my favorite.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 8 years ago
#148
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Jeff first off ditch the push button for the usual t handle leg mounts, and here are some really nice modern stick saver rims, the have a different rod collar but they are first class rims I've used them on some of my sale drums when I couldn't find real replacements. http://www.drumfactorydirect.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6_7_68

Your drummers not much good is he!? What you need is someone that's as good as me. ! John Henry Bonham !!
Posted on 8 years ago
#149
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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Thanks Jeff... Helpful info..

I'll post up another thread on progress...

Cheers

John

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 8 years ago
#150
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