Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 135.28184%

sanded natural maple hoop

Posts: 1880 Threads: 292
Loading...

Picked up a brand new Worldmax 6 ply maple bass drum hoop to put on my vintage Stewart 20" bass drum.

When i proceeded to lacquer the hoop with satin lacquer, i noticed that after drying, the surface of the hoop was rough, and not smooth as i thought it would be.. How can this be if the hoop was a natural finish and pre-sanded at the factory ? I used a foam brush, with steady short strokes, and it's not like i've never refinished wood before.

Is it possible that the factory sanding is simply a rough sanding to even out the surface, and not necessarily a smooth perfect finish, which needs to be sanded further before applying stain, lacquer, or paint ? I was only planning on lacquering the hoop to protect the wood, because i like the look of a natural hoop with the powder blue paint job i did on the bass drum..Can anyone please tell me why the lacquering is doing this on the factory sanded hoop,

and if i'm missing something that i may not be aware of ? Any and all thoughts are appreciated..

Thanks,

Rob

Posted on 7 years ago
#1
Loading...

Maybe the lacquer raised the grain?

-Doug

late 60s Ludwig Standard kit (blue strata)
late 60s Star kit (red satin)
Tama Rockstar Custom
a few snares ...
Posted on 7 years ago
#2
Posts: 1880 Threads: 292
Loading...

From shortyedwards

Maybe the lacquer raised the grain?-Doug

Maybe.. Is it supposed to do that ? Is that normal ?

Posted on 7 years ago
#3
Loading...

It sounds as though a sanding sealer then sanding was needed first. At this point it's best to coat, sand, coat, sand, and so on, until it's smooth. Finish with 0000 steel wool to bring back the satin finish.

Posted on 7 years ago
#4
Posts: 1880 Threads: 292
Loading...

From Stallwart

It sounds as though a sanding sealer then sanding was needed first. At this point it's best to coat, sand, coat, sand, and so on, until it's smooth. Finish with 0000 steel wool to bring back the satin finish.

Thanks for the reply Stallwart.. This is what i've been doing so far..

Sanding with 220 very lightly and coating.. I'm currently on the 2nd sand and coat and it's smoothing out.. I think a couple more should do the trick.. We'll see what happens.. The edges are the annoying partDOH

Posted on 7 years ago
#5
Loading...

What Stallwart says is good advice. If your finish is a water born product it will raise the grain, if solvent based then no. But, you you should always lightly sand any wood just before you stain it or finish it because the humidity in the air can raise the grain. My product manufacture recommends sanding with 320 between coats but 220 is fine as long as it looks good. Just dont polish it with super fine grits or the finish wont adhere correctly. Keep doing what your doing.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 7 years ago
#6
Loading...

Plus 1 to Stallwart. Always lightly sand between coats.

Posted on 7 years ago
#7
Posts: 771 Threads: 132
Loading...

Did you post a picture of the BD with the new paint job?

Keep fixing them up...
Posted on 7 years ago
#8
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here