I agree with Ludwig dude. Good Cymbals are pretty dam expensive. Drum mics are pretty cheap. The little plastic sleeves will protect your cymbals from key holing, but you have to replace the sleeves periodically. Tama stands have sleeves built into the nut. These work wonderfully for me. Invest $20 and get enough sleeves to last a long time.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation?q=cymbla+sleeves

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Well....anyone in the past 25 years who would NOT use some sort of cymbal sleeve on their stand (given particularly that they are standard inclusions on ALL new cymbal stands) is a bit of an idiot, really. As Poppy says, nowadays and actually for a good 15+ years, they have had those plastic sorta inserts pretty much included on all stands.

No offense, I am not calling you foolish....it's just that ....I understand in the old days why this would have happened...it's very, very typical of older cymbals, say pre-60's....simply because people didn't typically use 'em a lot of the time.

But seriously...a mid-70's and upward cymbal with a bad keyhole ?....that's just ignorance in taking care of your equipment.[/COLOR] [COLOR="Silver"]BTW - Mr. T can kick the BK's butt, any day of the week....;)[/COLOR]

Hello MastroSnare - I'm just kinda new to the realm of cymbaldom as a vintage area of interest. Previously, I've gathered what cymbals I could, put 'em on whatever stands I could find, and used anything from electrical tape to vinyl tubing to ??? to keep 'em from having metal on metal.

Keyholed cymbals & flat rides are new to me, never having either before. While looking around for info on keyholes, I saw this thread referring to rivets & metal grommets - It kinda made me wonder if using 'something' would help to not stress the hole any more so - beyond just the usual sleeve materials.

Just wondering as a cymbal newbie. I've never keyholed any. I saw somewhere somebody else alluding to the idea that keyholing can lead to cracks. I guess I just wanna not make things worse.

If nothing's really needed beyond normal anti-metal on metal devices, I guess rivets & assorted grommets are a moot point. Except to maybe keep the cymbal from always settling in the same notch.

I went to Ace Hardware and for under $5 got enough white plastic tubing to last at least 100 years.

That's all you need to do. All this stuff about grommets and whatever is, not trying be sarcastic or a know-it-all, but it's just wrong.

Just make sure you have a plastic sleeve on the stand and don't waste your money on the ones the music stores sell! :)

Is it too late for this one? Laughing H

Good Point! Mastro -

Woah Tubthumper ~ Now THAT is a keyhole! I got a skeleton key for that one.

I think you call that an object lesson electricit

No, I'd just play it and as long as everybody can dance there's no problem.

What's sad about that is that it was caused by somebody who either didn't know better or who didn't care enough to get a 9 cent piece of plastic hose from the hardware store, so a beautiful musical instrument was damaged.

But sound wise it probably doesn't matter.

Here's where I wonder a bit. I've read that the bell is the thickest part of the cymbal, as well as being a "division" from the main part of the cymbal sound. So for a crash or standard ride w/ bell, I can understand the "sound wise" point. - - My curiosity / quasi-concern is in regard to the flat ride I just bought. Since there is no bell, can keyhole-ing be more of a problem? :confused:

Quick question? If every good cymbal you have is keyholed and you spent five dollars for a lifetime supply of sleeving, how is every good cymbal you have keyholed?

lol

have a wonderful evening

drumhackband2HmmmmHmmmm

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