+1 for troutstudio's method.
I am ready to do my first re-wrap. I am just waiting on my 3M 30-NF Fastbond to get here. I got it on ebay 10 days ago, and the guy just shipped it yesterday???
Anyway, I did my dry run MANY times before I got it "right". My drum depth is 15", and I got my wrap from Precision, and they usually give an extra 1/2" in depth, so I got 14" depth pre-cut size. I have 1/4" on either side of the bearing edge that will be wrap free. After I did the taping and clamping on the dry run, once I got it "right", I marked with a pencil (traced) along the edges of the wrap near the bearing edge (2nd picture). That gives me a visual guide to make sure that it is going to be straight. Also, where the starting point is, I made a line with a Sharpie and an arrow so I know which which direction to pull the wrap. I also put painter's tape over the holes on the inside of the shell, to keep the glue from getting inside the shell.
[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/vyacheslav13/th_1-14.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/vyacheslav13/th_2-7.jpg[/IMG]
I would think that if you line up the starting point correctly (and it's straight), it would be pretty hard to NOT put the wrap on straight (centered). Either way, I will take my time and am confident I will do a good job (slow and steady wins the race).
Here's a question:
On the "bare" parts of the shells with no wrap near the bearing edges, will it hurt if I put the glue on this part? Should I cover it with painter's tape or something so that no glue is on it? I am going to get the bearing edges re-cut. Will that bare part remain "sticky" after everything is dry and applied?
Thanks.