You can add a small length of veneer in the crack. This should help close the gap if your unable to do so without it. I had a few spots on a LBP 16 tom I used it. Just prefit the length and leave standing proud of the edge. You can trim after with a small sharp chizel or razor blade. Or sit it flush best you can if your not comfy doing that after. I also tried to glue in sections and found I was chasing the crack around the shell. Where I already glued would want to seperate again unless I put a clamp on either side of the area I was gluing. Since then I glue and clamp the entire shell and found that worked best. You do need a few clamps though. I also taped up the inside under the ring for glue drips. I also sprayed a little water on the glue to help wick it down inside the ring and shell and used a very small thin spatula to help. Just be sure you can fit and get the ring in place where it needs to be before you glue.

Thanks for the tips.

My problem is that even with clamps like ones in your pics I can seem to get the gap to close.

It closes up a little bit.

But not much. :/

Here is a wider shot.

[IMG]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w211/macr0w/Snare%20Project/IMAG3359.jpg[/IMG]

Maybe you can steam the seam of the re ring to get it unglued. This will allow the ring extra space to go back in place, glued and clamped, and take up the gap if there's enough overlap on the ring seam. Not sure what glue was used on drums (I think hide glue) but hide glue and some fish based glues were used on some vintage string instruments. And steam softens the glue and allows them to come apart easily as need for repairs. Just a thought and hopefully someone can confirm the glue type. If that's a bit much try the thin veneer in the gap. It should be enough to take up the gap but double check before you glue them.

Thanks friend. :D

It seems that no one else has any suggestions. :lol:

I know!! I was hoping others would help out. I do this just for fun so there might be better ways to handle this. Hope you get some answers. ;)

I'm certainly not a "pro" at this but, it almost sounds like there's something in the crack that is preventing it from closing...like the old glue. That would mean trying to clean out whatever is holding the gap open...which might mean removing the re-ring completely, cleaning the old glue off the shell and the re-ring and starting over.

Or, just get as much glue in the gap as you can and after it dries fill what gap remains with a good wood filler and sand it smooth. I think several are recommended in previous posts here on the VDF. The guys that repair drums all the time may not like this suggestion however.

I had an old snare with a separated re-ring. I glued it and clamped the gap closed. When I removed the clamps the glue held, but the re-ring actually split creating a new gap. I had no choice but to put more glue in the new gap and smooth it with wood filler.

a older post shows a curved wood block's in and out with squeeze clamps a ver nice set up and wood glue

If it was mine I would remove and clean up the old glue like GG suggested. Wood can shrink slightly over years as the wood dries out leaving gaps. I have a stencil kit that the rerings are free floaters. If the glue is getting brittle the joint in the ring can probably be opened with slight flexing. Hide glue (my preference) works well but takes longer to cure than good quality wood glue. You can use whatever.