Two things...
!) Mineral oil from Mal-Mart is cheaper than 3-n-1 and is the same thing.
2) NEVER use steel wool on the bright work/chrome. It's OK for screws and T-rods and also for the insides and outsides of the swivelnuts.
Two things...
!) Mineral oil from Mal-Mart is cheaper than 3-n-1 and is the same thing.
2) NEVER use steel wool on the bright work/chrome. It's OK for screws and T-rods and also for the insides and outsides of the swivelnuts.
Novus and Blue Magic - killer combo! Also, may I suggest several baggies with labels and markers, (to keep your chrome bits organized) and of course, lots of space to work.
Also as a side note for me when cleaning with Blue Magic, I use 4 cloths in my process. First is for applying, second is for working it in, third is for wiping off the light residue and the fourth I use in conjunction with a very clean towel to hold the item as I'm polishing with the fourth. As I have found the residue gets on your hands and when trying to wipe it clean, unless you have a rag to hold the item you're cleaning, you just keep putting more residue on it. I also use a WD-40 pen to get in corners that I can't wipe down.
I've had luck with foil for using with the Blue Magic, I wouldn't use the foil heavily as it can scratch lightly. Also cotton swabs are nice to have around for hard to reach areas.
For Stu, here's a video I made, it's kind of lame, but it gets the job done.
I would like to add Magic Eraser to the list, see before and after photos below of my late 50s Slingerland Super Gene Krupa snare. I'll probably start a new thread on this because I'm sure there are others out there that have been distraught over stains on their wrap.
I was nearly in tears when I got the drum apart and found rust stains on the wrap. I tried many different methods before my wife recommended I try a Magic Eraser. I wet it with HOT water and wrung it out and gave it a try. It took a little elbow grease on some stains, but it came out rather easily! I then cleaned up all the other little spots on my kit that I had given up on and they all came out. The one thing it will not do, as you can see, is make aged marine pearl look new again, but I can definitely live with that.
My wife says, "Make sure you get the Kitchen & Bathroom Magic Eraser...the one that has soap in it." I didn't know there are different types of Magic Eraser, but I'm sure you can figure it out.
bbk- informative video. I think I now have a handle on this. The rest of your suggestions are grate. Thanks a bunch for all your help. I may have to post pix once I get going.
Good tip on the magic erasers too!
I've had good luck lately with Royal Purple rust eater from the auto parts store. I use it on t-rods, washers, mounting screws, stamped butt plates, some strainer parts. Let rusty parts soak overnight and they will look brand new in the morning!! Then just rinse off with water and I personally give a very light coat of wd-40 then wipe it off. NEVER EVER PUT A LUG IN IT. I made that mistake once.....
Another great product for removing rust is "Sour Salt" aka Powdered Citric Acid. You can order this from online Spice Houses & most of your local Indian or Oriental Food Retailers. Do a search on this site for Sour Salt, I posted links to online sellers in a thread. Some folks also use Coke (drinking kind), Kool-Aid, Country Time Lemonade Mix, etc., I use Sour Salt because it's more concentrated, thus making the job quicker.
Hope this helps!
Thanks again gents I will try all that you have posted. Fungus you know what your talking about your cool even though your the class clown. Royal purple huh? Try that to.
Thanks again gents I will try all that you have posted. Fungus you know what your talking about your cool even though your the class clown. Royal purple huh? Try that to.
I'd rather be a Forest Gump...clowns creep me out! After all, I am from Alabama & really like Shrimp & Football! LoLoLoLo
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