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Ludwig White interior paint

Posts: 2406 Threads: 55

From DownTownFarmer

I'm afraid I have to blunder in again with a loud voice and a sweaty face and insist you remove the rest of the paint from the interior of that shell...lol but seriously though you're almost there. Not saying you'll get the ink but it's a way better feeling to not be putting paint over old paint. Another acetone-stinking hour maybe, a light sanding, Tommy's paint......and I accidentally knock over some furniture on the way out.Mitch

DTF!

Actually, BIN shellac primer/sealer is extremely THIN in viscosity. It is NOT a "high build" primer, thus all it will do is BLOCK the rest of that ink and not sit on top of the wood fiber clogging it with pigment, as he has already removed a good amount of the original paint with all his prep thus far. It will save removing any more of the wood by sanding, etc., and also supply an excellent base for the BM 333-02. However!... there are SO MANY ways to achieve an end, and most all of this is completely subjective to personal opinion and experience anyway!

Tommyp

Posted on 9 years ago
#51
Posts: 6432 Threads: 290

What Tommy is saying about the BIN product is correct. That is the go to product we have used for many years in the construction business for sealing over dark colors, it works. You can get a good buzz from it too, lol!


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 9 years ago
#52
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576

From Tommyp

Gary!Alkyd is an option, but the SHELLAC is the key here, especially so with ink, crayon, marker, etc. BIN shellac primer/sealer will BLOCK/HOLD black indelible marker with no bleed through, whereas an alkyd "might" have a little difficulty. Alkyd's EXCEL for fire/smoke and nicotine though! As a painter I have no doubt you know! My family has owned a BM dealership for 55 years! I don't apply the products professionally as you do, but I KNOW their properties, and what/when/where to use!Tommyp

Tommy your correct ,Shellac has been my go too Barrier coat /sealer and finish since I started in trades it's never let me down and the white is pretty close in color to reso come to think about it...gary

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 9 years ago
#53
Posts: 13 Threads: 1

We'll see what, if anything, I can get done. The project has depressed me enough as it is; I may just chuck it all back into storage and give up again for now. If not, I'll post pics. But right now I just want to crawl inside the drum and die. Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

Posted on 9 years ago
#54
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

From pacealot

We'll see what, if anything, I can get done. The project has depressed me enough as it is; I may just chuck it all back into storage and give up again for now. If not, I'll post pics. But right now I just want to crawl inside the drum and die. Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

Keep at it. It's what most of us do for fun here. So don't let some restoration work get the best of you. Take your time and don't make a agenda to finish. Work on it when you feel like it. When you screw that last tension rod tight and play the drum for the first time it'll all be worth while. People here work on them and search for parts for years. It's the passion and madness we all share here. So while things might seem like a mess and pia you might learn to enjoy it as you progress! ;)

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#55
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

From jccabinets

What Tommy is saying about the BIN product is correct. That is the go to product we have used for many years in the construction business for sealing over dark colors, it works. You can get a good buzz from it too, lol!

Gotta ask what does the BIN stand for you guys are talking about? I have a purple kitchen the wife wants a burnt orange color. So I'll need to get some of this stuff! Yes a purple kitchen. DOH Laughing H

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#56
Posts: 6432 Threads: 290

Glenn, this is what I am referring to

http://www.dickblick.com/products/bulls-eye-1-2-3-latex-primer-sealer/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=01007-1007&gclid=CK6Ej9PBxsQCFVFp7Aod-2AAdQ

That is what we used, Tommy is talking about this

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/81625550?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=81625550

Either one would do the job. Same company, The BIN might be better.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 9 years ago
#57
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From Tommyp

DTF!Actually, BIN shellac primer/sealer is extremely THIN in viscosity. It is NOT a "high build" primer, thus all it will do is BLOCK the rest of that ink and not sit on top of the wood fiber clogging it with pigment, as he has already removed a good amount of the original paint with all his prep thus far. It will save removing any more of the wood by sanding, etc., and also supply an excellent base for the BM 333-02. However!... there are SO MANY ways to achieve an end, and most all of this is completely subjective to personal opinion and experience anyway!Tommyp

Absolutely! I just thought since he has most of the original paint gone, he may as well get rid of the rest of it, no matter what he's putting on there. Start fresh as it were...

As for a light sanding, I thought that was standard practice for prepping any wood surface for paint...220 grit, just roughing up the surface, not removing any substantial amount of wood.

But of course this all is indeed just what I'd do...:)

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#58
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From pacealot

We'll see what, if anything, I can get done. The project has depressed me enough as it is; I may just chuck it all back into storage and give up again for now. If not, I'll post pics. But right now I just want to crawl inside the drum and die. Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

I don't understand this - most of the paint is gone and doodles minimized, and you have a solid lead on a product that will prevent the doodles from bleeding through a new paint job - why give up now?

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#59
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

Thank you Jeff. My purple kitchen thanks you too! :D

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#60
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