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Ludwig White interior paint

Posts: 13 Threads: 1

Thanks for the MSDS info, Mitch - if I'm feeling well enough tomorrow (I have some medical issues - don't worry, not respiratory ones!) I will take the drum OUTSIDE and start trying to "de-ink" it. I actually picked up some acetone and some Motsenbocker's, but #3 instead of #4, since #3 is actually intended for pen and ink, and I also noticed the acetone content and general functional similarity to acetone of #4. I figure that I'll work my way up in intensity until something works. And I'll try to take photos too....

Posted on 9 years ago
#41
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From pacealot

Thanks for the MSDS info, Mitch - if I'm feeling well enough tomorrow (I have some medical issues - don't worry, not respiratory ones!) I will take the drum OUTSIDE and start trying to "de-ink" it. I actually picked up some acetone and some Motsenbocker's, but #3 instead of #4, since #3 is actually intended for pen and ink, and I also noticed the acetone content and general functional similarity to acetone of #4. I figure that I'll work my way up in intensity until something works. And I'll try to take photos too....

Super glad to help. Who knows maybe the Mots will be a little less intense and allow for a more relaxed experience. Either way best of luck, and do try to post pics...:)

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#42
Posts: 476 Threads: 89

From DownTownFarmer

Just for fun I checked the stats on the Motzenbocker's and sure enough, it contains acetone. Pretty much all these products do. I use and recommend acetone because it's cheaper in pure form and gets the job done every time. It will immediately start lifting the paint along with the doodles, but I found with that floor tom that the paint is thick enough to survive. Just work fast and wet and lightly, like I said, and don't overwork any one area - let it dry and come back to finish.I notice you're in CA so working outside, which you should definitely do, will not be a problem...http:// www.conncoll.edu/media/website-media/offices/ehs/envhealthdocs/MOTSENBOCKERS_LIFT_OFF_NUMBER_4.pdfMitch

I would be more worried about the "Trade Secrets" than the acetone!lol

Posted on 9 years ago
#43
Posts: 13 Threads: 1

Pfew. I didn't have much energy today or feel very good, but this is the status:

First, the drum before:

http://s224.photobucket.com/user/pacealot/embed/slideshow/Ludwig%20Repaint%20Project

Then, after some time with Mötsenböcker's #3, a bunch of rags and elbow grease:

http://s224.photobucket.com/user/pacealot/embed/slideshow/Ludwig%20Repaint%20Project/Ludwig%20Repaint%20Project%20Part%202

Clearly, all that did was mush the blues and pinks around a little bit. So, out came the acetone:

http://s224.photobucket.com/user/pacealot/library/Ludwig%20Repaint%20Project/Ludwig%20Repaint%20Project%20Part%203

So, I guess the question is: does anyone think that, with a little more sanding later to knock off as much old gunk as possible, the N333 that Tommyp found for me is going to cover this mess? There's just some ink that simply won't come off without removing more of the wood by sanding through (it bled straight through the paint into the maple), and I don't want to risk compromising the shell that much. I could kick the person who did this! :mad::mad::mad:

Posted on 9 years ago
#44
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

Man that's a TON if ink! Yikes!!!! I thought you have a few pen scribbles not a wall of color inside. I'd ask Tommy if there's a base coat primer you can use first. Like that cover all wall primer the box stores sell. If the paint itself is opaque enough it may cover. I think I'd do some tests first. Grab some scrap wood, some sharpie markers and paint a few test spots to see how it covers. And how many coats it takes. Just a thought? I wouldn't want to keep sanding and remove more material.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#45
Posts: 2406 Threads: 55

From FFR428

Man that's a TON if ink! Yikes!!!! I thought you have a few pen scribbles not a wall of color inside. I'd ask Tommy if there's a base coat primer you can use first. Like that cover all wall primer the box stores sell. If the paint itself is opaque enough it may cover. I think I'd do some tests first. Grab some scrap wood, some sharpie markers and paint a few test spots to see how it covers. And how many coats it takes. Just a thought? I wouldn't want to keep sanding and remove more material.

Glenn/Anthony!

YIKES is right! I had no idea it was THAT much ink! Anthony: STOP! Do not spend any more time trying to "clean off" all that ink. There is another way, and Glenn is correct... a HIGH BLOCKING/STAIN KILLING primer is what should be used here, and in this case, based on what you have shown here, use this primer specifically: BIN red label Shellac based primer/sealer. The shellac and white pigment will cover all that ink with no risk of bleed through.. and .. the finished surface will be COMPLETELY compatible with the BM 333-02. It will look brand new. Get in touch with me directly if you want more info!

Tommyp

Posted on 9 years ago
#46
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576

From Tommyp

Glenn/Anthony!YIKES is right! I had no idea it was THAT much ink! Anthony: STOP! Do not spend any more time trying to "clean off" all that ink. There is another way, and Glenn is correct... a HIGH BLOCKING/STAIN KILLING primer is what should be used here, and in this case, based on what you have shown here, use this primer specifically: BIN red label Shellac based primer/sealer. The shellac and white pigment will cover all that ink with no risk of bleed through.. and .. the finished surface will be COMPLETELY compatible with the BM 333-02. It will look brand new. Get in touch with me directly if you want more info!Tommyp

as a master painter i agree 100 % or use alkld and it will cover also

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 9 years ago
#47
Posts: 2406 Threads: 55

From jaghog

as a master painter i agree 100 % or use alkld and it will cover also

Gary!

Alkyd is an option, but the SHELLAC is the key here, especially so with ink, crayon, marker, etc. BIN shellac primer/sealer will BLOCK/HOLD black indelible marker with no bleed through, whereas an alkyd "might" have a little difficulty. Alkyd's EXCEL for fire/smoke and nicotine though! As a painter I have no doubt you know! My family has owned a BM dealership for 55 years! I don't apply the products professionally as you do, but I KNOW their properties, and what/when/where to use!

Tommyp

Posted on 9 years ago
#48
Posts: 13 Threads: 1

Thanks, everybody. I admit I was pretty despondent when I realised how bad it really is. But I will pick up a can of the B-I-N shellac-based primer as directed by Tommyp, and hope it works and that I don't overload the shell with paint and ruin whatever "tone" is left.

Pics and progress as it happens (or it didn't happen, right? :) )

Posted on 9 years ago
#49
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From pacealot

[...] and hope it works and that I don't overload the shell with paint and ruin whatever "tone" is left.

I'm afraid I have to blunder in again with a loud voice and a sweaty face and insist you remove the rest of the paint from the interior of that shell...lol but seriously though you're almost there. Not saying you'll get the ink but it's a way better feeling to not be putting paint over old paint. Another acetone-stinking hour maybe, a light sanding, Tommy's paint...

...and I accidentally knock over some furniture on the way out.

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#50
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