Found what I think will work in another post;

Jim,

Looks like a great project!

Looking at your last two pictures, here's what I would do with the resonant side edges on the FT as an alternative to try instead of having new edges cut:

1) (Assuming there's a little separation of the plies at the seam -- if not, ignore this step) Force some wood glue or Elmer's glue into the separation and clamp tight -- be sure to wipe the excess clean with a wetted wipe (rag or paper towel).

2) After that dries (I'd let it go overnight), mix up a small portion of Rock Hard Water Putty (available at just about any hardware store) and fill in the dings and gouges in the bearing edge, forming the putty as close to the form of the edge as possible. The gouges look rough enough (from the pictures) to hold the putty fine (the putty is kinda like paint -- it won't stick to smooth surfaces real well, so the gouges will need a little "texture."). Wipe away all excess putty. (BTW -- Evidently, Slingerland used a process similar this this right at the factory, as I've had Slingerland drums show up here that had putty-type of patches on bearing edges. Quite frankly this experience with older Slingys is what gave me the idea to do this in the first place!!)

3) By hand, smooth out the patches with sand paper (120 grit will work). Understand this is a slow process and takes time and patience.

4) repeat 2) & 3) above if necessary.

This from billnvic.

Is it any different that I'm working with the batter side of my bass?

Thanks,

Brian

The re-ring repair steps are exactly what you need to follow. I'm currently working on a 50's Gretsch bass drum and it looks like they also finished some of the voids in the ply with filler.

Is the drum collector grade or is it a player? If it's player, give the bearing edges a little cleanup. I think bass drums are a little more forgiving when it comes to the bearing edges.

-Tim

Thanks, Tim! Definitely player grade with the uneven wrap fade and concert tom converted to standard 2 head tom. I'll get the putty and have wood glue and clamps so will give this a go this weekend.

I want to replace the spring loaded ft leg mounts with the screw in type. Do you know who might have those for sale here?

Thanks again and Happy Friday!

Brian

Autosol metal polish (in a tube) is good for the alloy mounts. Some soft cloth and a few applications should bring it up.. you should find Autosol at a hardware or auto shop..

Be careful with your purchase of the leg mounts. They tend to strip/wear at the internal thread.

Cheers

Good point on the thread wear for the leg mounts. I was discouraged from searching for replacement buttons for the spring mounts because the spring could wear out and button cost. Do you have an opinion? My Premier kit has spring mounts on the bass drum and they work just fine.

I have some autosol from my last project, but never used it on aluminum. I'll give it a go.

Thanks,

Brian

Well to be honest I have had problems with the spring mounts on a 16" with the slipping thing.. but they can be tweaked up if you have all of the parts and I believe someone over there does a repo Knob.

Re the screw mounts my 18" has four legs, each of which was replaced years ago.. some were replaced twice (when they were reasonably priced).. In the end I gave up and went to Jammin Sam for some generic mounts. I now regret having not kept the old mounts as they can be re threaded... But this is before I was thinking in terms of Vintage.. I just needed a FT that I did not need to support with my Knee half way through a song..

Cheers

Any tips on clamping? I've got the glue and clamps for this re ring repair, but am unsure if I should protect the wrap & wood from the clamp. Do I clamp direct, or pad with cardboard or something?:confused:

I saw some photos of a repair like this in another post a while back, but couldn't find it again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Help2

Thanks a bunch,

Brian

Yes protect the wrap with tape, cardboard etc...... If you need to glue 1 section of the edge and ring clamp off both sides of the repair area. Not too tight on the clamps just "snug" till the gaps close nice and wipe the excess glue that comes out.

Here's a few I've done.

THANKS, FFR428!

That's just the advice I was looking for. I'll document my small repair with photos.

Thanks so much,

Brian

Bowing