Possibly be on the look out for a trashed shell that has the parts you need still intact, along with some others for use at a later date, or sell the unneeded parts to recoup some of your investment?

rms25thta - Sorry if my previous post offended you. I hadn't viewed LD's comment as a "personal confrontation" to you, but I guess I missed something. Please accept my appology.

Well said jonnistix.......I have done the design 3-d design work in Pro-E and Mechanical Desktop and understand the cost of making a "part" from the design phase to production. This piece isn't rocket science.....like you said, the mold was made many years ago has paid for itself many times over. Again, I am not saying the part should be $1 BUT....surely not $50.

I am probably going to redo the design and CNC machine it myself out of billet aluminum and let the round piece on the end be replaceable plastic or nylon round stock and instead of those tabs, have one solid piece that will be held on with two allen head screws. There is always room for improvement on a design.

Is it me or is the answer to this brutally obvious?? I have no idea what that drum is worth but it sounds like you dig it so here I go....

The cheap plastic parts broke, we all agree on this.

You want to spend good money for the exact same cheap plastic replacement parts.

You can get billet parts made for a C-Note.

You own a business, software..yada yada yada so the hundo should be no sweat.

Why haven't you placed your order for the custom billet parts yet and let the suckers keep paying through the nose for replacement cheap plastic parts?

I speak from experience here. We were going through certain plastic parts in our pumps at work all the time. They were expensive. We have a machine shop. We decided to make them out of brass and one set of brass parts has lasted for fifteen years and still going strong.

have a wonderful evening

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I would use those hand-dandy little screws that they are using for snare butts that use the drum key so that it matches nicely! That way, you can use another off the shelf part, keeping the cost down that much more. And it would look cool. Make a few of them and post them on feebay and see how it goes over. For the cost of start up, and the fact all of the machinery is at hand, and you already have it written, a pair for a bone...see were this is going?

drumhack......

I was checking to see if anyone had any of these. Am I going to pay for plastic replacements.......no.

Was I venting about the cost of the replacements...yes....that is over with now

Will it cost me a c-note to have the billets made...nope, I will design it and the code will be written for the cnc machine. My buddy will set it up and run them for me, I just need to go buy the material. The ones that I build will last forever.

RMS....it was not my intent to post a "personal attack" on you. Where you came up with that is beyond me. It was a comment about why something would cost as much as it does when "its only plastic".

Plastic, recycled or not is NOT as cheap as some perceive. Yes it is cheaper than MOST other products, but its still not cheap. "Plastic" is a general term, as there are many kinds of it, some rather more expensive than others. The kind of plastic that the original piece is made out of is a contributing factor to its cost as well....

Now with that said, let me get this straight. You are not willing to pay the asking price for an original piece because its plastic, yet you are willing to pay twice that for a hand fabricated piece because its made out of metal? To me THAT is absurd. If you want to RESTORE this drum as you stated at the beginning of the thread, wouldn't you just get the CORRECT original style piece?? If you fabricate something that is made out of a different material than original, that isn't restoring it correctly...thats just an improvised fix, albeit possibly a better quality (and more expensive) fix, but its not RESTORED. In the end the "fix" would actually devalue the drum to a collector in the future.

Now with that said, its your drum, do as you like to it. But if it were me and I exhausted all other options (meaning finding a drum in worse shape for spares or finding someone who had a spare) and all I had left was the still available replacement part, I would just pay the 50 bucks. It would be the right part and my restoration would be correct and my collector value would be held.

:2Cents:

Hi Rich,I think i have them n.o.s. parts that you need,i will have to check later tonight,if i recall right i have both sides[in my part boxes....if i have them 30.00 shipped to you for the pair..Mikey

who said it was going to cost me twice as much to have fabricated ones made??

all I have to do is buy some material....thats it......and that is only if my buddy doesn't have some drops laying around that will work. AND if I do make them, they will be anodized black and won't look that different from the originals. I am restoring this for me....IF I can't find some donor parts I am fine with the better CNC parts on the drum.

From what I read here, it says in your words, that "for a $100 I will have new ones machined from billet aluminum. My buddy owns a machine shop and will do it for me."

I guess I was mistaken stating that the smart play is to spend the hundred bucks, again your words, and offering my real world experience with the same type problem??? (plastic keeps breaking so use metal and get it over with)

I am just glad you appreciate all the advice people are willing to offer with nothing expected in return.

have a wonderful evening

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