That's the beauty of Optimounts, [COLOR="Red"]they don't contact the rims of the drum AT ALL[/COLOR]. They gently squeeze against the lugs and it's not my observation, but a FACT that they are FAR easier to install and require NO modification to make them stable and not rock around.

I've been a devoted RIMS user for MANY years, so I've learned how to tweak RIMS to get rid of the bouncing and still have the isolation, but the Optimounts do a better job without the fussing around. Another great thing about Optimounts is you can leave them in place when changing heads. It's MUCH easier than fussing with RIMS.

Bear in mind, I would have never even TRIED Optimounts of I hadn't found one in the southbound breakdown lane of Interstate Route 95. (*say what??*)

I was already QUITE tuned in to using RIMS. After the ease of installation and the stability of the Optimount, I'm SOLD on them.

The standard Pearl mount can of course be removed and the mount of your choice can then be installed. I use a standard Ludwig tom mount my Optimounts.

I've used optimounts on a Pearl kit. They work great. I just don't want it on my vintage drum. Nor do I want a rims mount on it. I want it to look vintage from top to bottom. That's why it was so tough. I had to figure out a solution that didn't involve modern technology (more modern, that is). I believe the careful head choice and careful tensioning is the solution for me. It seems to have solved it to a livable degree.

My bad on the Optimounts then. I looked at a couple in pictures and it *looked* to me like they were touching the top/bottom hoop, much like the RIMS mount touches the top hoop. Guess I didn't look close enough.

I've already got the RIMS mount so I'll continue using it. Next time I have this issue however, I will check out an Optimount.

Thanks for the heads up (no pun I swear) on this.

I have found that a clip mount doesn't seem to kill the resonance.

RIMS are what I use mostly though.

Lefty

LuddyDude sent me a cool grab bag of Ludwig Weathermaster Medium Coated heads. I popped those on the reso side and put coated Amb on the batter. Solved! These things sing like nobody's business. Finally!!!

So, I guess it has something to do with that particular reso head. I tried other single thins made by Evans, Aquarian, Remo, and such...nojoy. Only the Ludwig on the reso side lit it up. Interesting.

I tried them on all four of my kits. Same result. They make OUTSTANDING reso heads. Never would have thunk it.

I guess it's the combination of that strange hoop and collar and the relative odd thickness. They all work in combination to really hit the mark.

Here's a very short clip of the kit. Note the 13 inch tom sound. The "thump" is gone. It has opened up quite a bit and has that distinctive Ludwig sound. The other drums could use a bit of tuning, but that's for another time and another discussion.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_CUvluoOb8[/ame]

Hmmm.....funny thing about those heads....the reason I swapped them out was I didn't get enough resonance to my liking with them on my three ply ludwigs. Go figure! LOL! I'm thinking of trying Weathermaster Heavy coated top and bottom next as the Aquarians I fitted aren't cutting it either. Maybe RIMS are in order on my particular kit......and they are somewhat vintage....RIMS came out in the mid 70's.....the floor tom sings, the rack toms sometimes yes, sometimes no.

Anyway, glad the heads worked out for you. The pinstripes fit and sound wonderful on my 6 ply kit. The Aquarians were just too tight on the shell.....maybe I'll try silver dots and heavy clear reso's on that kit next.....

Yes, reviving an older thread.....Bump

Michael, just thought you'd like to know I found that my rack toms on my 3-ply kit have a lot more resonance with the pre-1968 style double tom holder I got from you a little while back. If I use the 1970's (the original holder for the kit) cast type, the resonance pretty much dies on the 12" and the 13" is muted somewhat, but not as bad as the 12". If I use said pre-1968 holder, BAM! Resonance returns! Hmmmm Food for thought? Maybe someone should start reproducing those older holders!!???

dw classics?

I've come to the conclusion that the heavy duty hardware that's pretty much dominated the scene since around '70 doesn't yield as good sound results as the lightweight stuff that preceded it.

You know those modern prosthetic limbs, the ones that the ankles are super thin... I could see making hardware like a hihat stand like that - super thin and small yet real strong and I'm quite sure it would sound better than a heavy one. You don't want to kinetically link cymbals with the ground, the lighter the stand the closer it is to being suspended in air... same with a snare... there's less vibration transfer to ground. Now kick drum is the opposite - you want that linked to ground. I remember Beatles engineer Geoff Emerick saying how he liked to put a pillow in a kick and then put a cement block on top of it. I used to do that when I was a kid and I just might get my Gretsch 22" back in action like that. It makes the time real solid for some reason.

I wasn't speaking of the heavy modular series holder, just the regular classic L-arm holder. The cast type made from 1968-early-1990's isn't that much stronger or heavier than the formed sheet metal design that it replaced. It is a more positive holder though, in the fact that it is a ratchet type adjustment rather than a loop of steel on a flat piece of steel with slots, etc. I just thought it odd that such a primitive design got better sonic results than the one that replaced it, which is still a primitive design, just not as primitive.

On a side note, I do have a kit with 6-ply shells and the modular mounts and there is no lack of resonance at all using this mount design. I hear no difference with the drum on the holder or off, they resonate the same.