Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 129.26096%

Slingerland Pop outfit 85N resto

Loading...

My wife got me these poor old tubs for my birthday.

1975ish? Concert tom set 12/13/16/22 in sky blue pearl. Couldn't find a date stamp inside but I did find the "P" stamps on all the drums.

The bass drum was wrapped inside with "chrome ripple nylon" and is a much thicker shell with no re-rings. The inner wrap was barely hanging on and had lost some of its chrome. The sbp is pretty green but I like the mojo.

Gonna do a Dawn bath on the hardware, novus on the wrap and figure out what to do about the bass drum interior.

Stay tuned!

4 attachments
I like Drums...
1963 Ludwig Downbeat Champagne Sparkle
1964 Leedy (Slingerland) Blue n Silver Duco
1964 Ludwig Club Date Sparkling Silver Pearl
1966 Ludwig Super Classic Sparkling Silver Pearl
1968 Gretsch round badge modern jazz orange stain
1972 Slingerland 85N Pop outfit Light Blue Pearl
1976 Ludwig Vistalite clear
1981 Gretsch SSB Gran Prix Rosewood
1987 Yamaha Turbo Tour Custom Mellow Yellow
1991 Pearl Export Ferrari Red
Posted on 7 years ago
#1
Loading...

Looks cool! That SBP appears to be evenly faded all the way around. Can you show a picture of the wrap after you remove the lugs?

Are you going to keep them as concert toms or put reso lugs and heads on them? You may already know this, but there is an easy "trick" to drilling lug holes with the correct spacing around the drum if you add them to the reso side. I'll be happy to elaborate if need be.

Other than the bass drum, how's the interior wood on the other drums, since they were all left exposed? You could always color match the "Chocolate milk" paint, or if you plan on using coated heads, you can either do a light clear coat or leave them as is.

I'm anxious to see how this project turns out. Any woman who buys you vintage drums is a keeper.

Posted on 7 years ago
#2
Loading...

From vyacheslav

You may already know this, but there is an easy "trick" to drilling lug holes with the correct spacing around the drum if you add them to the reso side. I'll be happy to elaborate if need be.

Would love to gain your insight into this. I am always looking for ways to improve the methods i use.

C-64 Almost forgot . . . Killer kit !

Looking forward to final pictures of it when your done. And yes, any wife that buys us drums for birthdays or any reason what so ever is definitely a keeper !

Michael

No Guru - I just love collecting & learning about vintage drums!

Some of my favorites from the kits in the collection
58 WFL New Yorker Blue Sparkle
67 Ludwig Hollywood Red Psychedelic
69 Ludwig Standard Red Ruby Strata
70's Ludwig BOP "Ringo" Kit

A few of my favorite snares
20's Leedy Black Elite
51 Leedy & Ludwig Knob Tension
58 WFL Buddy Rich Classic Blue Sparkle
63 Walberg & Auge Sea Blue Agave Green Pearl
66 Leedy Shelly Manne Blue Agate Pearl
Posted on 7 years ago
#3
Loading...

The bass drum shell interior actually came off easily once the hardware was off. I would need to cut a bearing edge on the front as it is flat.

The interiors aren't chocolate milk they are actually clear.

My phone isn't letting me post pictures, I will when I get home this evening.

And YES I am curious as to your technique in measuring out the lug casings on the redo side.

I like Drums...
1963 Ludwig Downbeat Champagne Sparkle
1964 Leedy (Slingerland) Blue n Silver Duco
1964 Ludwig Club Date Sparkling Silver Pearl
1966 Ludwig Super Classic Sparkling Silver Pearl
1968 Gretsch round badge modern jazz orange stain
1972 Slingerland 85N Pop outfit Light Blue Pearl
1976 Ludwig Vistalite clear
1981 Gretsch SSB Gran Prix Rosewood
1987 Yamaha Turbo Tour Custom Mellow Yellow
1991 Pearl Export Ferrari Red
Posted on 7 years ago
#4
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
Loading...

From clubdate64

The bass drum shell interior actually came off easily once the hardware was off. I would need to cut a bearing edge on the front as it is flat.The interiors aren't chocolate milk they are actually clear.My phone isn't letting me post pictures, I will when I get home this evening.And YES I am curious as to your technique in measuring out the lug casings on the redo side.

Put a speed square on the top after taking off the lugs. line it up to the center of the two holes. Draw a pencil line and then put the square on the other side, line it up again with the top line and draw the line the rest of the way.

Measure the distance to the center of the holes on the batter side and mark them the same on the reso side. where the marks meet the line, is the center of the two new holes needed to place the lugs equally with the batter side.

You`ll need a Framing square on the FT and BD.

Don`t use a straight edge. Use squares.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 7 years ago
#5
Loading...

Here's vintage the pics of the wrap and the bass drum interior.

4 attachments
I like Drums...
1963 Ludwig Downbeat Champagne Sparkle
1964 Leedy (Slingerland) Blue n Silver Duco
1964 Ludwig Club Date Sparkling Silver Pearl
1966 Ludwig Super Classic Sparkling Silver Pearl
1968 Gretsch round badge modern jazz orange stain
1972 Slingerland 85N Pop outfit Light Blue Pearl
1976 Ludwig Vistalite clear
1981 Gretsch SSB Gran Prix Rosewood
1987 Yamaha Turbo Tour Custom Mellow Yellow
1991 Pearl Export Ferrari Red
Posted on 7 years ago
#6
Loading...

Clubdate,

I've seen those drums on the Sacramento Craigslist and wanted to pick them up, but it's just too far away. Good score (and great wife!).

I couldn't attach the Youtube link. Search Youtube with "scrubbing sky blue pearl floor tom." It'll show the Ludwig lugs on a drumhead ready to be cleaned. The guy takes a while to get to it, so fast forward to the 12 minute mark. You'll be amazed at what he does with a 50's era Sky Blue Pearl Ludwig floor tom.

Josh

Posted on 7 years ago
#7
Loading...

From jmcohen

Clubdate,I've seen those drums on the Sacramento Craigslist and wanted to pick them up, but it's just too far away. Good score (and great wife!).Check out the below video on Youtube. If the link doesn't work, search Youtube with "scrubbing sky blue pearl floor tom." The guy takes a while to get to it, so fast forward to the 12 minute mark. You'll be amazed at what he does with a 50's era Sky Blue Pearl Ludwig floor tom.Josh

I've seen that video before. I have a SBP 67 Ludwig. My brother may be buying from me as it's now redundant with this Slingerland and my sparkle silver super classic.

Yeah $200, I got the crest snare, some roto-toms and a couple of old Lp cowbells.

I like Drums...
1963 Ludwig Downbeat Champagne Sparkle
1964 Leedy (Slingerland) Blue n Silver Duco
1964 Ludwig Club Date Sparkling Silver Pearl
1966 Ludwig Super Classic Sparkling Silver Pearl
1968 Gretsch round badge modern jazz orange stain
1972 Slingerland 85N Pop outfit Light Blue Pearl
1976 Ludwig Vistalite clear
1981 Gretsch SSB Gran Prix Rosewood
1987 Yamaha Turbo Tour Custom Mellow Yellow
1991 Pearl Export Ferrari Red
Posted on 7 years ago
#8
Loading...

From clubdate64

My wife got me these poor old tubs for my birthday.1975ish? Concert tom set 12/13/16/22 in sky blue pearl. Couldn't find a date stamp inside but I did find the "P" stamps on all the drum.

clubdate, how about some serials? Your wrap looks earlier than '75.

Posted on 7 years ago
#9
Loading...

Here is my method for getting lugs lined up correctly (spaced evenly) on the shell. It isn't very scientific, but it has worked great for me each time I have done it. I have done it on lower end drums to add lugs, such as if the original rack toms had five lugs, I would make them 6, floor tom had 6, I would make them 8 etc.

I made a modification, since I have never had to start from scratch on a drum or particular side with no existing holes. I added Step 1 for your situation, I usually start mine on Step 2. Note: For your situation, the first paragraph of Step 2 will not apply. After step 1, follow the "From a 5 lug to 6 lug" section in Step 2. Also, using a flat, "fabric" type of tape measure is advised, like the kind a tailor would use for measuring your waist or neck.

STEP 1: Assuming you have the bearing edges cut already (which you'll need to do on a concert tom), take the hoop and head off the batter side and take off one lug (it doesn't matter which one). Then, put the head and the hoop back on, and install the tension rods, getting them just finger tight so the hoop won't move or shift. Where the lug is is missing (that you took off), put a long tension rod, or even a long screwdriver through the hoop "ear" just like you would be putting the tension rod on the drum normally, except this time of course there is no lug for it to go into. Make sure the long tension rod or screwdriver goes down far enough to where the lug would need to go on the reso side, so you can mark on the shell with a pencil or Sharpie where the tension rod lies. I find it helpful to push the tension rod/screwdriver inward towards the shell, and mark it's position there, where there is a little less variance. Make a decently long vertical mark on the shell, an inch or two long, approximately where the lug is going to be. NOTE: You can always put painter's tape on the wrap near the approximate area where the lugs are going to be if you don't want to unnecessarily mark the wrap, although Sharpie comes off pretty easily with lighter fluid or goof off. After you get the vertical alignment marked by using the method above, take the hoop and head back off the batter side, and measure how far down the center of the top lug hole (closest to bearing edge) is from the bearing edge. Once you have marked that (by using a horizontal mark, again a few inches long and which will "intersect" your previous marking of course), measure the lug hole spacing from the center of the top hole, to the center of the bottom hole, and mark the shell accordingly, again using a horizontal line a few inches long. Where your vertical and horizontal lines meet (aka the exact spot of where the holes need to be drilled), I make those "+ signs" (if you will ) a little bolder and easier to see. It helps when you are drilling to be precise. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS! Drill those two holes per your measurements and the correct size holes for your lugs.

Step 2: This is where I usually start. This is the starting point for adding additional lugs. If you're going from 5 lugs to 6, fill in all existing lug holes on both sides except for one (doesn't matter which one). If you are going from 6 lugs to 8 (or 8 lugs to 10), then fill in the existing lug holes except for 2 on each side. The two unfilled should be 180 degrees from each other (On 6, 8 and 10 lug configurations, they all have a lug that is opposite, or 180 degrees from it). When filling in holes and/or leaving them unfilled, be aware of bracket holes or strainer holes etc. Changing the number of lugs will make the existing bracket and strainer etc. holes off center in the new configuration. Same for breather holes. I usually fill in the breather holes and just drill new ones. Same for bracket holes, I usually fill in and just drill new (or use a suspension mount). If you want to keep existing bracket or strainer etc, holes, you'll have to plan the position of your lugs accordingly.

From a 5 lug to a 6 lug (or to continue from Step 1 above):

Install the lug into the only existing hole. Then place a hoop (that has the "new" number of lugs, aka a 6 lug hoop) and head on the drum, and install a tension rod into the lug and get it about finger tight, just so the hoop won't move or shift. Then take your normal tension rod that you've been using on the drum and place it in to the hoop ear that is 180 degrees from your lone lug. Mark on the shell where it lies just like you did in Step 1 (again, I usually push it inwards so the tension rod is touching the shell so it's easier to mark). Once you have it marked, take off the hoop and head and measure the distance between the center of the top lug hole (closest to the bearing edge) distance from the bearing edge, again just like Step 1. Once that is marked, measure the lug hole spacing center to center, and mark that on the shell as well. After DOUBLE CHECKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS, drill those lug holes according to your measurements and the correct hole size for your lugs. Then, install a lug in your newly drilled holes, and the put the hoop and head back on, with two tension rods. The two installed lugs (180 degrees from each other) should now line up perfectly with the "ears" on the hoop.

NOTE: I always "spot check" myself after this step is done. If it's correct and looks good, and the two lugs that are 180 degrees apart line up perfectly with the hoop ears, then everything else will too going forward.

From a 6 (or 8) lug to a 8 (or 10) lug, and to continue your 5 to 6 lug from above:

Install your two lugs that are 180 degrees apart (if not already). Place the hoop and head on the shell and insert two tension rods into your two lugs that are 180 degrees apart. Get them decently tight, again so the hoop won't move or shift. Insert the rest of your normal tension rods through the empty hoop "ears". Make all your markings and measurements where each tension rod is, just like you did above. Once you've done all your drilling, reinstall all your lugs and then put the hoop and head back on. All the hoop ears should line up perfectly with the lugs below. I install the tension rods and tune it up just to be sure everything is correct.

Again, this isn't very scientific, but it has always worked perfectly for me, and I've done it at least 6 or 7 times.

I hope this helps,

V

Posted on 7 years ago
#10
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here