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Finishing Mahogany

Posts: 1836 Threads: 336

I have a 70's Ludwig 36" concert bass that I am finishing for a school. Originally they wanted it painted. When I got the wrap off that beautiful Mahogany was speaking to me and they liked the idea of keeping it natural. Do any of you have experience finishing? It needs to be safe for outside for the football games. Thanks in advance friends.

Posted on 7 years ago
#1
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

Mahogany has a very open grain.

You need to fill it with a good quality sanding sealer, and block it smooth. Possibly two or three coats with sanding in between each. I think I was using a Behlen brand product on guitars...

Then apply an automotive clear coat- a catalyzed acrylic urethane would be great. That will hold up outdoors and also to the inevitable abuse the kids will dish out.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 7 years ago
#2
Posts: 5291 Threads: 226

Tung oil and clear coat?

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 7 years ago
#3
Posts: 407 Threads: 27

Does anyone here use poly for the "clear coat" or are you all using a spray on finish? I hate spraying, don't have proper ventilation, etc. I'd have to do it outdoors which is very limiting.

-Doug

late 60s Ludwig Standard kit (blue strata)
late 60s Star kit (red satin)
Tama Rockstar Custom
a few snares ...
Posted on 7 years ago
#4
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

From grantro

Tung oil and clear coat?Cheers

Don't put clear over tung oil. Just oil it a dozen times and buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. Looks great and easy to touch up.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 7 years ago
#5
Posts: 5291 Threads: 226

From J!m

Don't put clear over tung oil. Just oil it a dozen times and buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. Looks great and easy to touch up.

Thanks for the info...

I`ve used tung oil in the past, but, never with clear...That`s why I put the question mark after the sentence...The OP wants a durable finish, so, I thought I would suggest clear coat after treating with tung oil...I now know they are not compatible...

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 7 years ago
#6
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

I'd say you need to go one way or the other.

I doubt a clear woul adhere long term over tung oil. I think if not right away, in time the clear wiuld delaminate from the oil. Tung oil is somewhat hard so it offers some protection. For a school drum I advise against it. Not durable enough and it will never get touched up in that situation.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 7 years ago
#7
Posts: 9005 Threads: 266

You need to talk to Jeff. He refinished this WFL kit for me and the finish on the mahogany is excellent. Talk to Jeff and find out how he did mine.

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/mk3_zps9f65a8cd.jpg[/IMG]

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 7 years ago
#8
Posts: 1836 Threads: 336

From Purdie Shuffle

You need to talk to Jeff. He refinished this WFL kit for me and the finish on the mahogany is excellent. Talk to Jeff and find out how he did mine.[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/mk3_zps9f65a8cd.jpg[/IMG]John

Thanks John. I'll get in touch with Jeff.

Thanks everyone who chimed in so far. I appreciate all the info. I just want this to turn out well for the school and to last them a long time. I don't have a sprayer so I'll probably need to work with either spray cans or whatever the other alternative is. Thanks again everyone!

Posted on 7 years ago
#9
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

He`s a good choice. I say go to the boat yard and get some clear then get to swab`n !

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It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 7 years ago
#10
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