I've read here that it's a good idea to apply a bit of car wax to a wrapped drum in order to add a protective sheen. Is this generally recommended? And would this advice apply to satin flames as well?
I'm redoing a kit in satin flame and have found that it's highly vulnerable to scratches. I'd like to protect it a bit, but given the textured finish, I don't know whether a coat of wax would be feasible.
Any suggestions?
I have done that before and it looks great and car wax makes the surface so nothing will stick so they look clean longer.
There's nothing car wax can do to anything as far as doing harm that I know of.
Car wax is the ticket on drum stands, lugs and rims.
I like Mequire's Cleaner Wax and would use it on any drum wrap, although I have been getting away from drum wrap as it's plastic and would rather finish drums in organic pine varnish like violin makers use.
When I buy a new drum stand I use car wax on it the day I get it. I think if you did this once a year your stands would look new forever.
Thanks for the tips! Hadn't thought about waxing my stands. I'm going to have to get mine clean and then give them a good waxing.
I should have clarified my post a little better, though: I'm not worried about wax harming the finish, so much as I'm wondering whether wax would apply well to a satin flame. Unlike most wraps, which are smooth, my satin flame is textured with very fine ridges (which I presume are what give it that ultra-cool 3D look). I wonder if the wax would go over a textured finish well, or whether it would just build up as gunk in the little ridges.
Thanks for the tips! Hadn't thought about waxing my stands. I'm going to have to get mine clean and then give them a good waxing.I should have clarified my post a little better, though: I'm not worried about wax harming the finish, so much as I'm wondering whether wax would apply well to a satin flame. Unlike most wraps, which are smooth, my satin flame is textured with very fine ridges (which I presume are what give it that ultra-cool 3D look). I wonder if the wax would go over a textured finish well, or whether it would just build up as gunk in the little ridges.
I'd test a small spot. It might leave a bunch of residue.
When I'm scared that car wax will leave white crap in depressions on something I put it on and then wipe it off right away. It's in the few minutes that you let it sit that the residue forms.
Yes, car wax on stands is the ticket! There's a product called TriFlow which is spray teflon. I use that after the car wax on any pivot point that moves. Way better than WD40, which attracts dust. That's my stand maintenance routine. The car wax makes the stands collapse real smoothly too.
Any stand - mic stands, and tools too, like wrenches and sockets are all candidates for car wax.
Wax on!
If the car wax remains in the ridges and grooves a soft bristle tooth brush will usually take it out.
He's right Meguiar's is the best, i just used it on some old Pearl's i found that had about fifty years of basement grime on them...
Cool1They look SWEET!!!
Meguiar's will shine them and clean them and it doesn't leave residue if you do it right(which is hard not to)
[COLOR="DarkRed"]I use car vinyl spray wax/cleaner...same idea...it really does bring 'em back a bit, old wraps....makes 'em look nice and reflective again....[/COLOR]
Wax and other wax options would be great on a typical flat plastic or wood finish, but I would *not* attempt to put it on one of the vintage satin flame finishes - it can't possibly work on the bumpy surface, and there's no way to buff it which you need to do to make wax shiny. Your instincts are right - I wouldn't try it - it's hard enough to get dirt and other gunk out of satin flames (some say scrubbing bubbles works well, but I haven't found any really good cleaner yet).
I just noticed that you said you're using new satin flame wrap - and my experience is all with the vintage wrap. Maybe the new stuff is made differently. Look at it up close using a magnifying loupe or strong magnifier - if it isn't a smooth surface (the old stuff is covered with bumps) then I can't see it working any better.
Just a thought - as I've not had experience with Satin Flame - kinda like those Astros right? - They seem kinda vulnerable to abrasion, too. I agree that car polish would get into the ridges responsible for the 3D effect.
I wonder if overlaying them with a clear film would be of any advantage - some kind of crystal clear acetate (NOT acetone!). Maybe kinda redundundant, i guess - Just a thought to protect 'em - like wax - without the goop up factor.
this kind 'o stuff http://www.dickblick.com/products/grafix-clear-acetate-sheets/
Of course you'd have to find it in large enough sheets - though you could try a small drum as an experiment - idk - just a thot Hmmmm
I'm surprised that the manufacturers of this wrap haven't created a nice sealed variety. I'd think it could enhance the look as well as protect.
I just purchased a set of late 60's Slingerlands with the red satin flames and I also wouldn't use wax on this type of wrap. It's real thin and with all the ridges, I believe you will have a mess on your hands, and your drums, LOL. My set has a few scratches also and I was wondering if maybe a spray on, clear type of wax might be better. just a thought, what do you all think.
