Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 129.46138%

Waxing drum wrap

Loading...

Thanks for the advice, everyone! Can I say again how much I love this forum? :)

From 4MoreYearsOhNo

Wax and other wax options would be great on a typical flat plastic or wood finish, but I would *not* attempt to put it on one of the vintage satin flame finishes - it can't possibly work on the bumpy surface, and there's no way to buff it which you need to do to make wax shiny. Your instincts are right - I wouldn't try it - it's hard enough to get dirt and other gunk out of satin flames (some say scrubbing bubbles works well, but I haven't found any really good cleaner yet).I just noticed that you said you're using new satin flame wrap - and my experience is all with the vintage wrap. Maybe the new stuff is made differently. Look at it up close using a magnifying loupe or strong magnifier - if it isn't a smooth surface (the old stuff is covered with bumps) then I can't see it working any better.

I've never seen vintage satin flame up close, but it sounds like mine is no different from the old stuff. It's about half as thick as pearl wrap, and it's not a smooth surface. It seems to be composed of thousands of tiny ridges -- I assume that's how it gets its 3D look. I assume that's also why it scratches so easily. It's beautiful wrap, but even though I'm babying it, I've already gotten a couple of nicks into it during the wrapping process. And this was supposed to be my gigging kit! DOH Depending on how well it wears, this kit may have to turn into a sparkle kit a few years down the road. :)

...Which is where the protection strategies come in. I like the idea of wrapping them in a clear plastic to protect the finish. I see Blick's sells a very thin clear acetate in 25" x 12' rolls -- $10 of this stuff would likely give me more than enough for my kit. I'll let everyone know how the experiment turns out!

Kits:
1950s Gretsch Name Band in Midnight Blue Pearl (13/16/22/14sn)
1965/66 Ludwig Club Dates rewrapped in Black Diamond Pearl (12/15/20)
Posted on 15 years ago
#11
Loading...

I must concur - this is the BEST forum IMHO. I'm on a few for recording, audio, guitar, computer - and no one is as humble and eager to share & discuss info as VDF - VDF ROCKS! Clapping Happy2

Cool that you might try the acetate. I've thought about it for a faded gold crushed glass bass drum I have - It's turned to dull off-silver. I thought if I used a slightly tinted clear covering, that maybe I could get it closer to my champagne Slingys. But, now I kinda like it as is.

- - For those Satins I can see the benefit protection-wise - though it'd be good to not go too thin on the acetate - it'll have to stand up to deflecting some gigging dings. Not a bad (and cheep!) experiment though.

On a re-wrap, if one had the excess wrap and the $$$, it could also be worth exploring a professionally done auto/motor bike type clear coat - - But that all might get expensive - idk - hard to say if it would effect drum tonal color. - But it would be waxable. I wonder if anyone ever does this on new drums?

just a brainstorm...

btw - I use NuFinish Car Polish on my assorted sparkles & stratas - so far it's been great w/ no problems. Definitely not for satin.

...but when he played on his drum, he made the stars explode....
Posted on 15 years ago
#12
Loading...

From section2

Thanks for the advice, everyone! Can I say again how much I love this forum? :)...Which is where the protection strategies come in. I like the idea of wrapping them in a clear plastic to protect the finish. I see Blick's sells a very thin clear acetate in 25" x 12' rolls -- $10 of this stuff would likely give me more than enough for my kit. I'll let everyone know how the experiment turns out!

Yes, please do. I do something that is sneaky. I buy those chinese shells, rework them all over, take off the cheesy taped on wrap, and resell them. I can pick them up for 50-75 for all the shells and hardware/stands. I won't give away my full secrets yet, as I sell them for 300. And they sell. I call them Student Custom Series, and they go over real well. I put on a complete custom paint job, isolate lugs and springs, I really do some way out there stuff to these 7 and 9 ply shells. What you get when I am done is nothing short of amazing sound, considering what they sound like out of the box. I will post one here someday. Anyway, I am toying with a new paint idea and want to know how this wrap works out, as it is exactly what I dreamt of this morning as I was thinking about how to protect the new paint process without putting a heavy coat of poly on them. Lo-and behold, this thread popped up, and it looks as though this is the ticket.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#13
Posts: 2628 Threads: 40
Loading...

From jonnistix

Yes, please do. I do something that is sneaky. I buy those chinese shells, rework them all over, take off the cheesy taped on wrap, and resell them. I can pick them up for 50-75 for all the shells and hardware/stands......

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I do that from time to time, too...but I just use left over scrap pieces of wraps, when I ahve enough to make a matching kit (usually Jungle Kits) ...except I also recut the batter bearing edges to make 'em sound a tad better.

But, dude...do you actually make a PROFIT off of that ? Because, when you count the labor, etc...it's just one big WASH for me....[/COLOR]

www.2ndending.com
Posted on 15 years ago
#14
Posts: 1971 Threads: 249
Loading...

I wonder if putting a protective layer over the Satin Flames will cause the light to reflect off the coating instead of creating the changing colors that Satin Flames are famous for...

My first kit was a scratched up '66 Slingerland kit in Green Satin Flame. I gave $25 for them and thought they were shot until I cleaned them and snapped a few flash pictures of them from different directions. That wrap jumps.

They are a 10 footer for sure .... but from 10 feet they are still SWEET.

Lots of Windex to lift the dirt out of the surface (Scrubbing Bubbles probably works great)... thick soft cloth for the wipe down.

:2Cents:

Not a Guru... just interested..
Posted on 15 years ago
#15
Loading...

From Jaye

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I do that from time to time, too...but I just use left over scrap pieces of wraps, when I ahve enough to make a matching kit (usually Jungle Kits) ...except I also recut the batter bearing edges to make 'em sound a tad better.But, dude...do you actually make a PROFIT off of that ? Because, when you count the labor, etc...it's just one big WASH for me....[/COLOR]

hehehehehe...It's more Love than Labor, Jaye.Yes Sir I don't consider it profit,I consider it a return on my love. It keeps the "Devil's Playground" full of kids....Stage Band2Laughing H

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#16
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here