There are those of us who will look at this kit and say "why?" and those that will say "why not?!" At least you got them for the right price!

-Mark

Indeed good sir, indeed.

"

@Fayray I cut new edges on an MIJ as well, minimal tools necessary as long as the edges are true. Just get yourself some files and something made out of wood that is the shape of a quarter circle (I used a piece of moulding) and some sand paper of varying coarseness. I started by rounding the outside edge first until the apex of the edge was about half of the plys of the wood (so if it's 8 ply it would be at about the 4th ply inward), then use the file to give the inside edge a rough 30 or 45 degree angle. As long as you know what an edge should look like just shoot to get it as close as possible. It won't be as perfect as using a router, but hey, it's an old drum that had no edge on it to begin with so anything will be a vast improvement. The St George MIJ kit I cut edges on is by far my favorite kit to play and it sounds fantastic.

Now if the edges aren't true to begin with (check on the flattest table you have) then you will need to true them before any of the steps listed above. I recommend finding someone with a really flat sanding table or looking up how to build one yourself. It's pretty easy as long as you can get yourself a really flat surface to start with.

I hope this helps!

Thanks for the advice. I'll see how I go. Cheers

What he is saying is, have the guts to try to cut those edges.....it's not as hard as we fear. I would make it most true by using a router. Any local wood-worker could do it for you, it he has the courage. I had a friend with NO edge cutting experience do a snare for me, and it turned out great. Just provide a sample for him from a kit you like. Fact is, no matter what edge you cut on those, they will sound great as their resonance will come from the trueness and tuning the heads to the shell (timbre-pitching as in DW). Using a router will ensure that the results are true. Doing them by hand could turn out well, but it is subject to your precise work with your hands/tools, etc......that would seem like a refined act of art.....much more easier for 'true' results using a router.

Let me also add - those might clean up real well! Even if it is pitted, might still look fine, downright good, so long as you use proper methods (no steel wool is what I am implying here!). Even if you feel those are the cheapest of the MIJ at that time, are they good enough to be functional? If so, with a clean and polish, good edges, new heads - could turn out to be your favorite kit.....as that wrap is real sharp!!

Invest the time, and it will bless you with returns of beautiful sight and sound!

BTW - I am in Michigan - and have never seen a Hashino badged kit ever in person - and possibly rare here in the states ??

ONE MORE THING - I just take those stands and throw them right in the tub with some Dawn/water. It may result in the insides of the tubes getting wet, might drain some rusty water - but that too will dry out. Brush off the chrome after 24-48 hours and that hardware might turn out to be great. Yes, I follow up with some polish, but the soak will do most of the work for you. I have a whole set of MIJ flat based hardware and use most of it gigging out. Compact, functional, and really cool looking! Major plus for that kit that the box appears to include alot / all you need for the whole kit!

Oh those are definitely worth the time and trouble to clean up. Perhaps not financially, but surely in personal enjoyment.

I am with those who say to do what you can with the bearing edges. It's not like you're going to make them worse, and you might find you have a talent for it.

Thankfully because these shells are also thin, making any edges would be fairly easy. You can certainly go with the files as bpmdrummer suggested, and that may be the best bet for these drums. Honestly I doubt that anything you could do would make the drums sound worse, if anything It'll be a vast improvement. You got this, and I'm sure there are enough of us on here that can give you any tips / tricks you may need to get these drums a signing!

I've cut prefect round overs on a similar kit (using router for outside and file inside). Sounded great!. In fact, hard to admit, it sounded better than "higher grade" kits I have.

Like some said before, the're not much wrong with old "seasoned" luan.

THANK YOU Bart - there you have it folks.....this is proof that it can be done and the outside cut is the crucial one to make sure it is done with precision / "true" and the other variable is that the edge must be flat to start with (flashlight test) BTW - don't use a piece of wood that is as flat as you can find.....no, use a piece of glass - as glass will likely be more flat than a piece of wood. Just make sure the glass is not flexible....and lay it on a surface that is as flat as possible.

Old dried out luan is as good as just about any vintage wood - so long as all the other variables are met with precision and excellence - including tuning.

ENJOY - and don't dismiss that old MIJ that you have had for 20 years and never thought much of it's sub-par sound. I had this happen with a 12 in tom on my first kit (never could get it tuned to sound good!) that I played for over 20 years......had the edges recut and it transformed that tom and indeed the whole kit sounded amazing after inspection/minor edge cutting.

Some extra notes on using a router on old Luan to avoid splintering:

- be sure to push the wood in the right direction

- use sharp bits

- use painters tape to secure the outer ply

- Most of all: increase depth of cutting slowly and in smal steps.

beware: Dry luan splinters very easily!!!!!