Hey Mitch, thank you for the reply and nice comments.

Glenn, sounds crazy I know but after a few failed attempts with a utility knife I just had to see how the saw would work. I just basically laid the wrap down on the saw and held a piece of wood about 2" wide ( it was a rip of 3/8" plywood) and 20" long or so over the wrap to keep it from jumping up and down and fed the wrap and the wood at the same time , right hand pushing the wrap, left hand holding the wood. I kept the the wood piece about an inch away from the blade and about 3 inces from the end of the wrap so I could curl up the end of the wrap a bit to get a grip on it. I have a zero clearance insert in my saw, you will have to buy one or make one. You dont want any space or gap between the saw balde and the insert. I have a Forrest woodworker 2 blade in the saw and it was kind of built up with pitch from some syp that I had been ripping, but it cut the wrap real nice. I have a pretty nice saw that dont vibrate and the fence sits right down on the table, be careful that the wrap dont go under the fence. If it does then lay some thin cardboard on the table against the fence to lift up the wrap. The cardboard the comes in the center of a Bush light 30 pac works great, I have a bunch of those. lol!

Now, when you are ripping, stop when you have about 1/2" of wrap to go. crank the blade down and remove the wrap safely and finish the last 1/2" with a knife. If you dont do that the inlay piece that your making will want to curl up when its cut loose and possibly get caught in the blade. I thought about clamping a 1/4" rip of plywood to the fence about an 1/8 or so off the table to hold down the wrap but I wanted to see the wrap contact the fence. Here is a link to making a insert,

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/zero-clearance-table-saw-inserts

Hope that helps, if not give me a call or email.

Here ya go, final pic.

The end.

Cleaned up well is a huge understatement :-) Thanks for the pics along

the way!!

Creighton

My gosh that is a beautiful drum set.

Yer funny. The kit looks real nice all right. What kind of mount are you going to drill the bass drum for?

aha

Was I close with the invisible-at-four-feet prediction?

Mitch

Welcome to the Camco Club for real! You now own one of the highest quality professional drum sets ever manufactured in this country. As time passes and you continue to improve as a drummer, your appreciation of the drums will deepen and grow.

Enjoy them for many years to come, Jeff. Nice save!

John

Jeff these look great man~! Your lucky to have such a cool set of Camco's!

And thanks for the zero clearance insert tip! Not sure of Dan has one but I'll ask him. If I have any more Q's I'll send ya a email thanks buddy!

Thank you guys!

Mitch, it depends on the way the light hits the drum. Right now there is a recessed can light directly over the bass drum and at night with that light on you cant see them from 2 feet away. But in the day with natural light you can see them from five feet if you look at the right angle, but at different angle its only three feet or so. I'm very happy with the results, I can honestly say they couldn't be much better.

Sorry guys, I had to come back one more time to say THESE DRUMS SOUND AWESOME!!!!!

Tuned them up this morning, used the snare drum my daughter gave me for Christmas (it sound awesome too) and brought up a hihat with the Zilco hats that came with the Camco's. I wanted to do a pic with all of the cymbals that came with it, there was some cool one's. But for now I just grabbed my Sabian ride cymbal so I could play them.

Thanks again for all the replies! Next up, a Slingy kit.

Another great pic! Although I feel behooved to tease you about the giant cymbal boom stand....naw. :)

As for visibility of the plugged holes, the great thing is that in any light, no one will be looking for them so they will always be 100% invisible! [with an average visibility distance for yourself of about 4 feet] :)

Great work!

Mitch