Just stomp 'em.

You might want to try a different bottom felt or "Support".

I have used these two in the past with success:

This first picture is from Pearl. It's made of 100% rubber and the three "fingers" on that one keeps the bottom cymbal "centered" so it is always laying the same way (tilter screw not withstanding). It also feels like the bottom cymbal springs back up in a way, ready for the next "chick". It's also cheap at $3.99. The only downside to that one is that is seems to muffle the bottom cymbal more than a normal felt would.

This second picture is by Cympad. I use this one a lot. I don't like the regular Cympads for cymbal stands, but the hi-hat seat is really nice. It's made of rigid neoprene foam and very dense; you can't fold, collapse or bend it at all. It keeps the bottom cymbal very well supported, and also doesn't seem to muffle it all. The set of three runs about $8 or so.

I also agree in keeping your top cymbal slightly loose, so it can "float" and conform to your bottom cymbal. Also, another trick I do is that hi hat cymbals, just like ride cymbals, tend to have a heavy or "low" spot where they always seem to lay. With the angle adjustment in place to your preference, rotate the bottom cymbal so that the "low spot" is 180 degrees from the tilter (I keep my tilter screw to my left, furthest away from the snare). This way, you're getting the most tilt for your buck, and it will naturally work its way there anyway, because the heaviest spot will go to the lowest spot it can (gravity and all). I then draw an arrow with a Sharpie on the inside of the bottom cymbal, and I draw the arrow pointing directly at me. That way, I know if it's not in it's "prime location" by just seeing where the arrow is. The top cymbal usually has a heavy spot too, so I do the same for the top cymbal. I usually have both arrows facing me and I never get any airlock, because the bottom cymbal is sloping down to my right (towards the snare) and the top cymbal is sloping directly back at me. Sometimes the top and/or bottom cymbal will rotate out of position, and I can feel some airlock and I'm not hearing a solid chick. I just look at the arrows, and do a quick turn of the top and/or bottom cymbal and I'm back in business. It's amazing what a 10 or 15 degree turn can do! I encourage you to experiment with different locations for what works best for you.

Lift your heel.

Is your stand spring tension adjustable? Might the top not be popping up fast enough to reset the gap before the next pulse?

This.......

Serial numbers: http://www.paiste-only.com/paistewiki/index.php?title=Serial_Numbers

History of 2002s: http://www.paiste-only.com/paistewiki/index.php?title=2002

Are your serial numbers 6 or 8 digit?

Not 8, 5 or 6 but not 8 :)

I think they are 6 actually...

As regards chick and weights...

I have a pair of per serial 602 Sound Edge hats and I don't have to tilt the bottom much at all to get them to go CHICK. In fact, what is hard is to get them to go chick instead of CHICK when I want them to be quieter. :)

Like most of the original Sound Edge hats, my bottom hat isn't that heavy (top = 875g bottom = 975g). Mine say "Pat Pending" on the bottom which dates them to the original patent application time for Sound Edge.

So I wonder if some of the suggestions on tilt and bottom hat weight are made by people who don't use Sound Edge hats in the first place? Or are 2002 Sound Edge hats quite different from the 602s? Just curious. I only have experience with 602s.

I just have a orphan 14'' sound edge bottom, 70's, and mixing up top hats depending on style of music.

I actually got my hats to chick great at my last rehearsal so I kind of forgot about this thread :)

I used advice from guys making comments in this thread though!

The key was using the Paiste Sound Edge bottom and tilting so the bottom hat would touch the top hat slightly when open.

Part of my problem is/was also my hi-hat stand(s).

My main stand for over 20 years now, a DW 5000, never ever had a problem with getting any hats to chick - but a rubber grommet at the base is toast. Without the rubber, the stand makes a horrible clicking sound. Still working on getting a replacement for that.

You can get a rubber grommet in almost any size at any hardware store for less than 50 cents.