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What's the trick to get your hats to chick?!

Posts: 947 Threads: 115
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From vyacheslav

You can get a rubber grommet in almost any size at any hardware store for less than 50 cents.

Great idea! Just need the correct size from DW's schematics and motivation to take the chain apart held on with a goofy cotter pin, kind of a big obstacle actually, but thanks for the grommet idea :)

Found it!!
Posted on 9 years ago
#21
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The trick is......

have em far enuf apart.

watch some vid of Bonham and look at how far apart his hats are set.

trade off is, your lifts won't be as crisp.

Jim

60's Sonor Teardrops & 70s Premier AMs
Sabian
Vic Firth
Remo/Evans

"unless it's vintage, it's just another wooden tube."
Posted on 9 years ago
#22
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Nylon grommets can increase chick sound also,,,well since you were going to the hardware store anyway lol.

Posted on 9 years ago
#23
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I have the top hat loose. The gap about 1/2 inch or less. Any more gap and I tend to throw sticks cause the tip will sometimes get caught at the edge. The bottom hat tilted about 1/4 inch but the tilter screw is NOT facing me but facing in line with the top of the rim of the batter head of bass drum (or so about). I play Sabian AA Regular 14's currently but been looking for a new sound for several years now. The Sabians I have chick great but im bored with the sound that I used to love. Debating on Saluda EarthWorks. I've wanted to try a 15 over a 14 or a 14 over a 13 for a while but haven't heard the perfect replacement yet. I think I remember Alex Vanhalen back in the day played a 15 over a 14 but im unsure. He played Paiste back in the 1980's didn't he?

Posted on 9 years ago
#24
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Some hats don't chick well, irrespective of weight ratios and distance between the cymbals on the stand. I don't really know why this is but I've certainly owned plenty of high end hi-hats that air-locked constantly and didn't have a good foot sound.

I play a pair of Istanbul Sig 14's, got them used, and the bottom hat is very slightly warped. They chick perfectly, and never ever air-lock on me. I think the warping is actually beneficial in that regard, because other than that I'm doing everything wrong and they should lock constantly by the conventional wisdom. I like them very close together, and their weight is very similar, and not heavy. I've had some Sound Edge and Mastersound cymbals too, and my theory is that symmetry in the edge warps negates their benefit. A warp on one edge only keeps the air moving well.

60's Gretsch Progressive Jazz Green Sparkle
'61 Slingerland Bop Kit Sea Green Rewrap
Round Badge Bop Kit Clone Red Sparkle
'67 Pearl President 13/16/22 Red Oyster Pearl
Posted on 9 years ago
#25
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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I think I violate all the rules and get plenty of chick.

I run new beats upside down- bottom on top. I've done so since I got them in the 80's. Great chick and great stick. I was doing progressive rock back then and a lot of fast hat work and the heavier top gave great articulation.

The black kit has 13" K custom dark hats (rite side up) and those chick fine too. Very thin and soft feeling but the chick is plenty loud.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 9 years ago
#26
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