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stewart drums

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From calfskin

well , his house was a normal east Toronto newer house but the garage was his collection of goods. nice guy and I found it so strange that he or his pals would find , what were 3 very desirable items ( doesn't mean much to most of you guys--but the mic. condenser was as rare as Mike the Chickens head).

I bought a bunch of stuff from him in the spring... they moved their storage space from Bloor/Landsdowne to Finch; they had a ton of camera/movie set gear, cosmetics and computer stuff, plus a lot of drums and hardware that had all been severely damaged after his Wholigans stage bustups when they trashed their equipment

Really amazing prices on the good stuff, and he still has a ton of nice parts that he wisely kept

Posted on 11 years ago
#41
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From Kona

P2eStewart drums are okay. I have the Stewart snare drum pictured here - in WMP - and it is a very nice sounding drum. I started playing in the early 60's and my very first drum was one pretty much like this one. I have some sentimental attachment to these MIJ drums from the 60's. But, that aside, a Stewart snare drum can be made to sound not too bad. They're nice looking drums too. I have a 14 Royal Star floor tom and tone-wise I'd put that up against many modern much more expensive drums....no Sh*t....it sounds that good.Most of the 'tuning' - the sound from a drum - comes from the bearing edges, the heads & the hoops. The wood ads to it but it is not the biggest variable in drum sound.

Agree with this mostly. The shell material+head fixings, produce primarily aftershock modulations and amplification, to the sound of the head but that modulation is a big part of resonance. I can't see much variability in the shape of a bearing edge----just that it seals and has the smallest contact area possible. It is an airseal.

There are absorptive qualities of shells, though and sometimes the resonant frequency of the wood can be below that which a specific head can safely be tuned to. The thing about Luan, is that it is porous and absorbs some sound , yielding a muddy coloured tone. Yes, as the wood tightens up with age , that ameliorates somewhat. Generally, softer porous woods are desirable for 14" FT's because the lower resonance helps them sound fuller. The same wood however, is often disastrous to a snare.

The rationale for having 4 different wood types in the shells of a kit is pretty real.

I think the MIJ 14" FT'S are the best drums of the group.It seems that the Luan wood( 3 ply) , is well mated to this application. The 16's are heavy and hollow, lacking definition, the snares muddy , and the bass drums tend to be boomy, 12's and 13's , I have always found thin and metallic and this is even with head changes , smooth bearing edges and carefull attention to tuning.

Posted on 11 years ago
#42
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From calfskin

Agree with this mostly. The shell material+head fixings, produce primarily aftershock modulations and amplification, to the sound of the head but that modulation is a big part of resonance. I can't see much variability in the shape of a bearing edge----just that it seals and has the smallest contact area possible. It is an airseal. There are absorptive qualities of shells, though and sometimes the resonant frequency of the wood can be below that which a specific head can safely be tuned to. The thing about Luan, is that it is porous and absorbs some sound , yielding a muddy coloured tone. Yes, as the wood tightens up with age , that ameliorates somewhat. Generally, softer porous woods are desirable for 14" FT's because the lower resonance helps them sound fuller. The same wood however, is often disastrous to a snare. The rationale for having 4 different wood types in the shells of a kit is pretty real. I think the MIJ 14" FT'S are the best drums of the group.It seems that the Luan wood( 3 ply) , is well mated to this application. The 16's are heavy and hollow, lacking definition, the snares muddy , and the bass drums tend to be boomy, 12's and 13's , I have always found thin and metallic and this is even with head changes , smooth bearing edges and carefull attention to tuning.

I agree on the 14" FTs, the best sounding drum I've ever heard in my life bar none was a 14X14 MIJ I had 40 years ago. Also agree on the Snares, kinda hard to get a good sound out of an MIJ 14 inch snare. However, I've had spectacular results by converting 8X12 toms to Snares. Very good sounding drums. Later this month I plan on converting a 9x13 to snare.

That metallic sound the 12s and 13s have is in my opinion one of their finest features. They sound great with one ply clear heads on top and bottom. Awesome vintage sound that brings back memories of the early Who and some of the Jazz greats of the time and earlier. Gene Krupa comes to mind. BR not so much though, he seemed to prefer a more progressive or modern sound.

Georgia Phil Custom Drumworks
https://www.GeorgiaPhil.com

Drum Wrap, Drum Heads, Drum Accessories
https://www.StuffForDrummers.com
Posted on 11 years ago
#43
Posts: 657 Threads: 40
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Wow! This is has become a pretty interesting thread! Lots of opinions and observations going this way, that way, up, down, sideways, backwards... I hope anyone reading this understands, as the last few posts demonstrate, that different people look for different sounds out of a particular drum/drum set, and that all of this is subjective and should be taken with a grain of salt.

That said, I would like to make a few comments.

From calfskin

I can't see much variability in the shape of a bearing edge----just that it seals and has the smallest contact area possible. It is an airseal.

Variability of the shape of the edge on the overall sound of the drum? If this is what you mean, I'm perplexed, becuase the conventional thinking (around here anyway) is much to the contrary. (Round-over edges sounding very differnent than double 45s, etc.)

From calfskin

There are absorptive qualities of shells.. The thing about Luan, is that it is porous and absorbs some sound, yielding a muddy coloured tone.. the bass drums tend to be boomy..

Isn't this a good thing for a bass drum? You can always control the amount of muffling, but you can't add sustain that isn't there.

-- -- -- --

Regarding the response to my earlier comment about the MIJ shells being the same, I should clarify that comment. In the early to mid 60s, the shells coming out of Japan were the really thin 3 ply with re-rings (either 2 or 3.) These were the shells on both the Star and Pearl drums (I don't think Hoshino was in play yet.) These shells are so similar that if you took the badges and hardware off the drums, no one could tell them apart.

Later in the 60s and into the 70s, the thicker 5-? ply shells (no re-rings) came out. And again, if there were no other tell tale signs on the drum, the shells would be basically indistinguishable between Star and Pearl. I'm not the first to point this out, I'm just re-stating it here. When Star started painting the interiors grey, that was something that you could point to and say 'Star.' But, from what I've seen, the edge contours were pretty consistent from drum to drum within each drum manufacturer and between them. So much so that I have wondered if there was only 1 factory making the shells to supply both companies.

The Hoshino drums do seem to have some differences in that they were using building techiques later on that were no longer employed on Pearl and Star drums.

As to the 'grade' of luan, from what I've read, luan is a fast growing species of wood and can range widely in terms of the look of the grain. I dont think that the factory/factories really gave much thought to the piece of wood they were using - it was just the batch that they had available at the time. One possible exception to this (which I cant confirm) is that some Pearl drums seem to have a ply of maple on the interior. My thinking is that these might just have a ply of luan with a lighter color and wider grain pattern stuck on the inside because it just looked a tad bit nicer, but was really no more expensive to produce.

Finally, I also think that some of the other MIJ drum parts should get more discussion, ie; cymbals, mounting hardware, stands. I especially think that more discussion should be devoted to the lugs as I see so much variation there and they are such a vital part of the overall performance/functionality of the drum.

Sorry for the length, but there's so much to discuss!

Posted on 11 years ago
#44
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Hey you guys - check out this MIJ kit. Here is a good example of a quality MIJ stencil - as they DO exist. I would put this on par with a good Zim Gar.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/msg/3929684830.html

Pics attached for future reference. Olympian MIJ Japan Made by?

John

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 11 years ago
#45
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More pics of the Olympian.

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 11 years ago
#46
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From Drummerjohn333

Hey you guys - check out this MIJ kit. Here is a good example of a quality MIJ stencil - as they DO exist. I would put this on par with a good Zim Gar. http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/msg/3929684830.htmlPics attached for future reference. Olympian MIJ Japan Made by?John

10-lug bass drum. That is fairly rare is it not?

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 11 years ago
#47
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From tnsquint

10-lug bass drum. That is fairly rare is it not?

Yes it is, but I HAVE seen them. Rogers style lugs - and you know they are gonna be thick suckers too. I see alot of good quality there. No....no re-rings, but the shells appear to be quite thick.

Wonder who made this?

John

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 11 years ago
#48
Posts: 2713 Threads: 555
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Calfskin

Your analysis is probably true and well put together.

However, all three of my MIJ snare drums sound great and I do use them with my hi-end Gretsch kits sometimes mainly because I like to play all the drums I own. I either have very shi**y sense of what a good drum sounds like or maybe I'm just kidding myself.....wanting the drums to sound good...OR they actually do sound good. Anyway...for me....I love the sound of my metal shell no-name MIJ snare, my Apollo and my Stewart. I think maybe I'm easily pleased haha. I love drums in general so you'll have to forgive me for not being 'scientific' about the sound and look.

I liked your analysis by the way.....good post....as are many others here as well - I'm enjoying the thread.

Posted on 11 years ago
#49
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Looks as if these (brand - Olympian) have been briefly discussed on here (2012) and Mikey ID'd it as a Pearl made kit. from very late 60s to 71.

Ok- back to regularly scheduled programming :)

Stewarts.....

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 11 years ago
#50
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